Rhino repair

b16rde · 16 August 2009, 20:54

Hi<Hopefully someone can help me here, I have an Rhino rib ( made by Quicksilver) is has a polythene (I think) hull, I have managed to score the bottom, creating a small leak, I wonder what would be the be the best way of repairing this ?
All advise welcome.
Thank you

Poly · 16 August 2009, 21:03

Assuming its the PE hull itself that is leaking and not the join between the hull and the tubes - then this info on fixing PE kayaks might be helpful?

http://www.windriderforum.com/smf/in...pic=832.0;wap2

jyasaki · 16 August 2009, 22:12

Polyethylene?

There are a few new epoxies that will adhere to PE, though I don't know if they will be suitable for your application.

Many of them require "flame treatment" of the base material, which involves passing a propane flame across a couple of times (modifies the molecular structure somehow.)

One I know of does not require pre-treatment: 3M's Scotch Weld DP 8005 is a use-as-supplied acrylic epoxy that supposedly does not require anything other than application.

A web search for "gluing Polyethylene" or "gluing Polypropylene" should get you more info. (Both are low energy plastics that, due to their rather unremarkable molecule, have both been pretty much impossible to glue until fairly recently.)

Luck;

jky

Ribshop · 17 August 2009, 07:55

Our repair kits come with instructions: http://rib-shop.com/prodtype.asp?PT_...ageHistory=cat
or you could pop it in in you are in Southampton we are just up the road.

b16rde · 17 August 2009, 09:25

Hi Ribshop, I have used you before, really happy!
The bit I'm trying to repair is the hard polythene hull, do you do something for that?
cheers
Roy

Ribshop · 17 August 2009, 10:16

Hi are you talking about the GRP hull of a Rib or is it the floor of an inflatable?

Poly · 17 August 2009, 10:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ribshop

Hi are you talking about the GRP hull of a Rib or is it the floor of an inflatable?

No I think Rhino's hulls are made from Polyethylene like many kayaks, sailing dinghies (and my entire boat!).

b16rde · 17 August 2009, 11:03

Yes the hull is like a hard polythene, not very flexible, it doesn't crack, but has a deep score in it, that has gone in all the way, causing a very small leak, letting in water !
Hope this makes sense !!!"
Roy

bedajim · 17 August 2009, 11:16

We used to use a plastic welder on topper dinghies to fix holes etc

It was like a hot air gun but very focused heat and you fed in some plastic strip as you applied the heat

Poly · 17 August 2009, 11:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by b16rde

Yes the hull is like a hard polythene, not very flexible, it doesn't crack, but has a deep score in it, that has gone in all the way, causing a very small leak, letting in water !
Hope this makes sense !!!"
Roy

Roy, makes sense to me. You have a long deep gouge out the hull which has penetrated through the thickness of the hull for some or all of its length. You need to get this polyethylene welded then, the link I provided earlier does provide DIY instructions, but if it were me I would be tempted to call any local kayak/dinghy centre (school, hire place) most of which will have lots of these sort of boats and see if they can suggest someone who can professionally weld it for you locally.

e.g. probably not local these folks claim to do it http://www.hop2sailing.com/page/29/S...d-Repairs.html

When I bought my boat I investigated how complicated it was (because even although "indestructable" - I am incompetent!) and there are "plastic welders" around (which look like a fancy soldering iron) for something like £50, but it was suggested (like all welding) the tricky bit was in getting it all to stick together as one "fused" component rather than just a bead of weld material - without overheating anything.

Ribshop · 17 August 2009, 18:10

If it is Polyethylene then sorry cant help but i do remember fixing old canoes made from the same sort of stuff using melted plastic ice cream containers.

b16rde · 17 August 2009, 21:16

Thanks for the repiles, I have ordered some 3M Scotch Weld DP 8005 from RS, Im going to try this first, as I can lift the Rib on boat crane without removing the engine. I will post the results...
If it doesn't work I will try the welding root, but this will have to wait till the winter,when I take Rhino home, and I can remove the engine and turn her over (should be easier) I hope.

b16rde · 06 August 2010, 15:56

Quote:

Originally Posted by b16rde

Thanks for the repiles, I have ordered some 3M Scotch Weld DP 8005 from RS, Im going to try this first, as I can lift the Rib on boat crane without removing the engine. I will post the results...
If it doesn't work I will try the welding root, but this will have to wait till the winter,when I take Rhino home, and I can remove the engine and turn her over (should be easier) I hope.

Sorry for the delay, in posting I used the 3M's Scotch Weld DP 8005, as suggested, it worked a treat, thanks for all help.
Roy

free · 06 August 2010, 21:20

Since I wasn't a member in 2009, I'm sure it'll be OK to reply to a dredged up thread

If you Google ptex repair then you'll find a wealth of info on repairing PE. Snowboard bases are made of PE and gouges are routinely repaired at home with ptex sticks, basically you melt/light the stick with a flame and drip it into the gouge then dress it flat again. As it's seriously hot you're melting the filler and parent material and not having to deal with adhesion issues, I've done this at subzero temperatures with complete sucess.

free