Rib bilge pump installation challenge

[alpinebyte]

I've recently started putting new life back into an old Bombard Explorer 500 (2010). There is no bilge pump although I've read of others with it installed. I'm trying to work out how and if I should put one in.

Currently drainage is only by opening the plug when speeding along - not great for solo cruising, especially when you stop and forget to put it back in...

I'm going to install a better one way scupper but I'm also keen to install a bilge pump but struggling to find a design to fit the boat. The entry ladder is behind the main drain hole, so could be an issue for a submerged pump.

Any thoughts or anyone experienced a similar challenge? Photo of layout attached.

[Peter_C]

I have a similar'ish AB 4.5m with a little easier access to the back. My boat is seriously butt heavy and I have taken waves over the stern with the bow beached. Never trust the Pacific Ocean! Fortunately I had widened the drain holes to the rear compartment and upgraded the bilge pump and tubing to a 2000gph pump. Can't imagine not having a bilge pump for just removing water drug into the boat from swimming/diving. Bilge pump for life!

What is under that hatch? Can you take a photo from inside, and under the seat? Is there a box in the floor at the transom that is lower than the rest of the floor?

I also enlarged the rear well drain hole in the center behind what would be "your" hatch, by removing the plastic thru fitting and just sealing the wood inside the hole with epoxy. The faster water gets off the boat the better.

Trying to keep the costs down yet still have a reliable bilge pump I used high quality components sourced carefully. A Rule 2000gph bilge pump handles pumping. Automatic is the only way to go and those flipper flapper thingy switches are very unreliable. So I used a Ultimate JR bilge pump "float" switch. Some things are worth spending money on, and not having a dead battery from the bilge pump sticking on, and burning the pump and wiring up, or the switch not coming on when it should is worth every penny. https://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?p...mpswitch_price

For tubing you want a smooth bore that isn't going to kink, nor break like the cheesy ribbed plastic stuff does. I used this. Boat Bilgeflex tubing

[alpinebyte]

All really useful info, thanks Peter. She is also butt heavy so face similar issues that you mention.

Under the hatch is a dry storage area (minus the odd design flaw) - if water gets in, it is rare and minimal. The issue is at the floor of the boat itself (right hand side).

I've attached more photos for context - RE transom, the centre drain is for water leaving the hatch and isn't the main drain. I was also looking at a Rule but was considering if a non-submersible somewhere out the way could be best.

[Peter_C]

Where is the fuel tank? If butt heavy start moving heavy stuff forward. The battery being one of them.

Those scuppers can sink a hard sided boat. Many have gone down from scupper failure, even if they just create a slow leak. Another option would be to enlarge them and put on elephant trunks with console mounted releases. Otherwise you are looking at two bilge pump setups.

Still not understanding what is under that hatch, and how you access back there? Doesn't the seat fold up allowing access.

[ptm]

I reckon the elephant trunk is the way to go- cheaper and no battery issues.

[ptm]

Also, a none return version would allow you to run with it deployed most of the time.