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13 March 2014, 23:20
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,619
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Rib consoles - to vent or not to vent
To keep the main console free of damp inside is it best to seal it as best as possible or is it better to have vents to let air circulate ?
Im having to move a audio speaker due to some work done where steering hydralics lines were put back and are rubbing on back of speaker housing so thought it best for them not to rub so have option of doing some GRP work and sealing the 75mm hole or potential fitting a vent which will also allow air to circulate in the console, its on underside bit of console shelf so spray or rain water wont be a factor,
so vent or not to vent, anyone else have vents in their consoles ?
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13 March 2014, 23:25
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wakefield
Boat name: Bouncer
Make: Redbay Stormforce
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x Honda 100 Hp
MMSI: 235025718
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,177
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Can't you move the hoses to miss the speaker or hold them off it a bit or get a spacer for the speakers
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14 March 2014, 00:10
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Town: Rostrevor
Boat name: Ricochet
Make: Redbay
Length: 7m +
Engine: Twin F115 Yams
MMSI: 235083269
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boristhebold
To keep the main console free of damp inside is it best to seal it as best as possible or is it better to have vents to let air circulate
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100% vent - otherwise the resulting condensation will destroy the electrics
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14 March 2014, 07:49
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#4
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
MMSI: Awaitng one
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,339
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vent for sure. my old console was not vented and there was alway steam in the tacho but the new console is vented and no problem
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14 March 2014, 09:12
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,619
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Thanks chaps, that makes it a lot easier, I could not move the speakers out cos it would have meant making a 2cm spacer, the cables were so tight against the speaker and not much room to move them around hence removal of the speaker is best solution plus im also upgrading speakers. Currently have 4 speakers in console 2 x 75mm ones and 2 6inch ones, going to replace the two 6inch ones with more powerful 6.5 inch speakers and ditch the two small ones, where the two small ones were is under the front lip of the console so im going to fit two vents in place of those holes. which will keep in nice and tidy.
thanks for advice.
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14 March 2014, 10:03
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,866
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Venting the console is a necessity. Not just to stop condensation but to allow battery gasses to escape and fuel vapour if you have built in tanks and hoses.
One thing I will ask people who want to install vents is to install them above tube height where practical if you can't install vents above tube height then perhaps install a waterproof access hatch that you can open when you like and leave open when the rib is in storage. This will help protect your electrics should your rib get swamped. The last thing you'd want if you got into difficulties is to have electrics that don't work or water in the fuel. Batteries don't like sea water either.
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Andy
Looks Slow but is Fast
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club.
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14 March 2014, 10:18
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribochet
100% vent - otherwise the resulting condensation will destroy the electrics
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Yep!
A Good coating of corrosion guard (re-applied time from time) on the electrics,AND and the rest of the kit exposed under the Consul won't go amiss either
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14 March 2014, 14:06
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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vent.
100% seal is a utopian fantasy- even if battery gas wasn't a problem!
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17 March 2014, 09:26
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,619
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Have done it, fitted a pair of stainless lovre vents which fitted very neatly on the holes the speaker removal left.
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17 March 2014, 09:42
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boristhebold
Have done it, fitted a pair of stainless lovre vents which fitted very neatly on the holes the speaker removal left.
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Just read this, been meaning to vent my seat pod for a year. Thanks for the reminder.
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17 March 2014, 21:44
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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Vent 100%
Did mine last year two round white plastic soffit vent (about £1 each).put mine at the bottom of the console which is 4" above the deck. Nice and dry let's battery and fuel vapor fall out so I feel it's much safer.
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17 March 2014, 21:54
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon23
Vent 100% Did mine last year two round white plastic soffit vent (about £1 each).put mine at the bottom of the console which is 4" above the deck. Nice and dry let's battery and fuel vapor fall out so I feel it's much safer.
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Ideally you want them above the flooded water line, so in a stuff or if you get flooded in surf onan beach, they're above water. If not, water enters but can't get out.
More importantly, Batteries and electrics should ideally be on a shelf in the console that is above the line too.
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17 March 2014, 21:59
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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How do you find the flooded water level without filling your boat with water?
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17 March 2014, 22:10
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon23
How do you find the flooded water level without filling your boat with water?
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Difficult really. Easiest way is to fill her on the water though. Shows you where water line is but also how quick water gets in which consoles and jockeys. Plus gives great experience of how to then recover and the time it takes.
Just like a MOB drill IMHO. Trunks down, get her in gear and try to get forward motion. May take a couple of rocks forward and backward.
If your battery is on deck or in a non sealed box, don't do it! Makes a mess, blows battery and ruins cables bitter experience of our old searider with a battery on deck in a box.
A guesstimate without actually doing it. It'll be about mid tube line, depending on the weight of your boat in relation to size of tubes. Small tubes, higher, big tubes, lower down. Also depends if you have your void bungs at front and back in or out. If you have them.
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17 March 2014, 22:33
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: liverpool
Make: tohatsu6.1 one desig
Length: 6m +
Engine: mariner 125hp
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 357
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Thinking about it would it be the lowest point on the transom, as it would keep filling till it overflowed or would it sink before that?
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17 March 2014, 23:14
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon23
Thinking about it would it be the lowest point on the transom, as it would keep filling till it overflowed or would it sink before that?
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It keeps filling roughly until awash with sea but tubes stop it sinking if big enough, which most ribs are. Again, depends on buoyancy vs weight
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18 March 2014, 16:15
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#17
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Seattle
Boat name: Water Dog
Make: Polaris
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 60hp
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL
It keeps filling roughly until awash with sea but tubes stop it sinking if big enough, which most ribs are. Again, depends on buoyancy vs weight
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Mine is awash, fills basically to the top of the tubes amidships (they are level from there all the way to the transom). You don't wanna know how I know
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18 March 2014, 16:44
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captnjack
Mine is awash, fills basically to the top of the tubes amidships (they are level from there all the way to the transom). You don't wanna know how I know
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Probably do!
We have oversized tubes so we have relatively high buoyancy. Whilst the transom round the engine is awash, the higher sides aren't. Our tubes are pretty much half under water up to mid ships where they start to be clear of it due to high sheer bow.
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20 March 2014, 01:08
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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FWIW the OEM battery shelf on my Humber puts the top of the battery just above toob height.
I guess if I have water above there the battery is the least of my worries!
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20 March 2014, 08:40
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9D280
FWIW the OEM battery shelf on my Humber puts the top of the battery just above toob height. I guess if I have water above there the battery is the least of my worries!
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LOL agreed.
Ours too
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