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16 May 2007, 12:38
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#1
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Malahide
Make: Ribcraft 5.3
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90hp 4 st
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
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Ribcraft Lifting Points
Hi,
I’m looking at retro fitting lifting points to my Ribcraft 5.3. Has anyone had any experience doing this to any type of RIB or are there any pearls of wisdom out there. If anyone had any pictures of a Ribcraft fitted with them it would be a great help. I have seen RIBs being lifted in the past using the towing eye bolts on the outside of the stern on a number of occasions but I wouldn’t be too sure if this would be a recommended practice!
Any suggestions/pictures/advice welcome
Cheers,
Neil.
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16 May 2007, 14:55
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
Length: 8m +
Engine: Cat3126 Yam 90 &70
MMSI: 42
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,562
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|Do you have a deck or Anchor locker in your boat.
Fitting proper lifting points through the transom is a good way but I'd have the eyes facing inoard which clears the strops from the A frame
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16 May 2007, 15:17
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes, Isle of Wight
Boat name: TiLT 2
Make: Avon Adventure 620
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 135
MMSI: 235032203
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,641
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We have lifting eyes on our Avon 6.2m.
We have 2 eyes facing inboard on the transom and two eyes forward that go right through the hull and are fixed to small backing plates on the outside of the hull.
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16 May 2007, 23:10
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#4
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Malahide
Make: Ribcraft 5.3
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90hp 4 st
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
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I'm going to put two D-rings at the stern facing in and one at the front either just below or above the D-ring for the bow line to attach to. Was more worried about what size to use rather than positioning. Any suggestions on diameter??
Thanks,
Neil.
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17 May 2007, 06:40
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#5
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nspain
I'm going to put two D-rings at the stern facing in and one at the front either just below or above the D-ring for the bow line to attach to. Was more worried about what size to use rather than positioning. Any suggestions on diameter??
Thanks,
Neil.
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If the one in the bow is to be fitted inside can you use some through nuts from the existing bow ring and fit one the same size, no more holes in the hull
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17 May 2007, 10:09
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes, Isle of Wight
Boat name: TiLT 2
Make: Avon Adventure 620
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 135
MMSI: 235032203
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bedajim
If the one in the bow is to be fitted inside can you use some through nuts from the existing bow ring and fit one the same size, no more holes in the hull
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Beat me to it.
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17 May 2007, 13:19
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#7
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Malahide
Make: Ribcraft 5.3
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90hp 4 st
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 10
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I did think of that but think about the actual shape of the Bow-ring. It's basically a big U shape that goes through the hull with the bolts on the inside at each end of the U, in other words impossible to put two of them back to back through the same holes?? Therefore I was going to put one just above or below or even in the anchor locker if the angle is great enough for the lifting strop to clear the console.
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17 May 2007, 13:28
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes, Isle of Wight
Boat name: TiLT 2
Make: Avon Adventure 620
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 135
MMSI: 235032203
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nspain
I did think of that but think about the actual shape of the Bow-ring. It's basically a big U shape that goes through the hull with the bolts on the inside at each end of the U, in other words impossible to put two of them back to back through the same holes?? Therefore I was going to put one just above or below or even in the anchor locker if the angle is great enough for the lifting strop to clear the console.
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You should be able to get an eye bolt that you can thread the existing u-bolt onto. So you would unscrew the nuts on the inside of the hull, slide the new eye-bolt piece on and then secure in place with the nuts again.
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17 May 2007, 13:32
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes, Isle of Wight
Boat name: TiLT 2
Make: Avon Adventure 620
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 135
MMSI: 235032203
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,641
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Useful thread
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17 May 2007, 13:32
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#10
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RIBnet supporter
Country: UK - England
Town: Rutland
Length: no boat
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nspain
I did think of that but think about the actual shape of the Bow-ring. It's basically a big U shape that goes through the hull with the bolts on the inside at each end of the U, in other words impossible to put two of them back to back through the same holes?? Therefore I was going to put one just above or below or even in the anchor locker if the angle is great enough for the lifting strop to clear the console.
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You thread the through nuts onto the fixed u bolt then put to normal nuts on to the second u bolt, place the two u bolts together and as you undo the through nuts they thread onto the new u bolt when you've got 50 % of the through bolt on each nut lock them off with the normal nuts, I'd use thread lock as well
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15 October 2009, 21:18
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lowestoft
Boat name: Charlie Golf II
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: Outboard Petrol
MMSI: 235075503
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6
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Lifting \\points ribcraft 4.8
Hi i want to fit lifting points for a 3 way lift on my 4.8m i was going to put 2 on the transom and 1 in the forehead deck locker through the hull? is this ok?
do you jknow where the centre of gravity would be as to length of the strops?
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15 October 2009, 21:22
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes, Isle of Wight
Boat name: TiLT 2
Make: Avon Adventure 620
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 135
MMSI: 235032203
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,641
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That should be okay. Just make sure the forward U-bolt is man-enough. You can put the forward U-bolt back-to-back with the existing outside one for the painter.
You'll need to lift her with ropes attached to the U-bolts to ascertain where the COG is. Adjust the ropes until she is level and then have the strops made up the same.
Andy
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15 October 2009, 22:16
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Lowestoft
Boat name: Charlie Golf II
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: Outboard Petrol
MMSI: 235075503
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 6
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lifting
Hi Andy, thank you very much i was not sure whether to have the rear 2 stropes shorter as they are taking most of the weight
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15 October 2009, 22:42
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tango charlie 8
... i was not sure whether to have the rear 2 stropes shorter as they are taking most of the weight
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How much shorter were you thinking?
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16 October 2009, 05:57
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sheepy Parva
Boat name: Sadly Sold
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,731
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Why not ask Ribcraft how to do it?
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16 October 2009, 10:21
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cowes, Isle of Wight
Boat name: TiLT 2
Make: Avon Adventure 620
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 135
MMSI: 235032203
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tango charlie 8
Hi Andy, thank you very much i was not sure whether to have the rear 2 stropes shorter as they are taking most of the weight
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Yes, the two aft strops will be shorter. How short will depend on the weight of your engine.
I had my strops made by Spencer Rigging in Cowes.
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