Ribtec 725 refurbishment

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Got almost all the deck removed that is rotten, it's taken longer than I thought.
Just need to clear the transom and then I can get started on filling in the hole in it. When I bought the rib I was told it had a 150ltr fuel tank but when I roughly measure it 260ltrs [emoji848] its height must not be the same as stringers, does anyone know what a standard fuel tank for a ribtec?
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Finally got all the deck all off, I sand back the front section with the distorted fibreglass as beamishken suggest and found the bow section very soft are rotten.
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Looking for a bit of advice, the transom is 55mm ish and with a hole in it with fibreglass on the inside. I was going to sand off the fibreglass off the inside and add 2 18mm sheets and fill the hole but not sure how thick the supports on to transom need to be. A 300hp outboard will hanging off the back.
Thanks for the help
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Looking for some pointers and making sure I am going in the right direction. I was going to cut out the back section of the stringers as they need to be raised to support the floor, is this the right way to do it and what would you use to glue the stringers down before tabbing the them.
Thank you in advice.
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Today manage to remove the stringers from the rear, now just have to sand back the transom and start to rebuild her.
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi all
I got a question, i need to put 36mm marine ply on the transom. The transom has gelcoat on it do I have to sand the gelcoat off or can I sand flat and glue the marine ply on.
Cheers for the help
Kevin

[beamishken]

If I was doing it I'd sand it back to glass , I'd also sand the ply with a 36grit fibre disk on a 7" grinder run against the grain to raise the grain on the ply to key it, I'd then lay a couple of layers of well wetted csm between the transom & new ply & clamp it tightly until the glass cures then grind off the front face of the ply & lay up with glass & resin to your preferred thickness

[A1an]

Originally Posted by beamishken

If I was doing it I'd sand it back to glass , I'd also sand the ply with a 36grit fibre disk on a 7" grinder run against the grain to raise the grain on the ply to key it, I'd then lay a couple of layers of well wetted csm between the transom & new ply & clamp it tightly until the glass cures then grind off the front face of the ply & lay up with glass & resin to your preferred thickness

What he said.

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by beamishken

If I was doing it I'd sand it back to glass , I'd also sand the ply with a 36grit fibre disk on a 7" grinder run against the grain to raise the grain on the ply to key it, I'd then lay a couple of layers of well wetted csm between the transom & new ply & clamp it tightly until the glass cures then grind off the front face of the ply & lay up with glass & resin to your preferred thickness

Prefect
thank you for the advice. Will need to get some long clamps.
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi there
Was looking a buying resin and fibreglass but not sure if the rib had epoxy or polyester was used in it and what gram size of CSM should I get.
Thank you for the help
Cheers Kevin

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by kevinsc

Hi there
Was looking a buying resin and fibreglass but not sure if the rib had epoxy or polyester was used in it and what gram size of CSM should I get.
Thank you for the help
Cheers Kevin

Most boats were built with polyester which is fine for repairs but you need to be sure that whatever your glassing to is well sanded with rough disks (36#) to provide a key. I usually just buy 300gsm chopped strand mat as its easy to work into corners etc & if you want thicker its relatively easy to build up the thickness with more layers. east coast fibreglass in south shields or allscott in glasgow will supply although allscott seem to be reducing their range of smaller packages & have a minimum order value now.

[kevinsc]

Thank you beamishken
Wasn't sure what one, I was going to buy a lot of resin and CSM as I have to fibreglass the deck so will use 300 for it all and I have 36 grit on order.
Thank you for help
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Quite waiting for bits to arrive, I started to look at the electrics and plan it out. I followed alans build thread and I thought he's setup looked very neat and would like to do the same thing. Sorry to copy
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Started sanding the transom back and saw that at some point it had a outboard on it. Not sure when it was done. Silly question but how flat does the transom have to be before I can start adding more plywood, I would put a couple of layers of fibreglass on then would I make the resin like peanut butter and place first plywood on, then couple layers of fibreglass then the last plywood on then fibreglass in all in.
Thank you for the help
Cheers Kevin

[A1an]

Originally Posted by kevinsc

Hi all
Quite waiting for bits to arrive, I started to look at the electrics and plan it out. I followed alans build thread and I thought he's setup looked very neat and would like to do the same thing. Sorry to copy
Cheers Kevin
Attachment 143464

Don’t be sorry, I copied it off someone on here too.

Top tip, make sure all cable entries are on the same side of box so when you open it the cables act as a hinge and allow you to open the enclosure. If you have thick cables entering and exiting on opposite sides of the box it’s a bugger to take the lid off unless you have plenty spare coiled up inside the box.

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by A1an

Don’t be sorry, I copied it off someone on here too.



Top tip, make sure all cable entries are on the same side of box so when you open it the cables act as a hinge and allow you to open the enclosure. If you have thick cables entering and exiting on opposite sides of the box it’s a bugger to take the lid off unless you have plenty spare coiled up inside the box.

Hi A1an
Good tip will remember it
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Thought I would give you a wee update. Manage to move the rib and get in down the side on the house, so I could spend more time on it and less travelling to the storage place. But between work and weather not much has happened. I've started to trace out the template for the transom. And make a tent to work under.
Cheers Kevin Attachment 143747

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Wondering if you help me with the numbers I found on the rib transom and the serial number mean.
Thanks in advance
Cheers Kevin

[paulbrown22]

From memory of my Ribtec 9m:

GB = made in GB, as opposed to a later South African made hull
RTC = Ribtec
Hull number - I think was just a numerical incremented sequence, not sure it actually decoded into anything useful about the specific hull, i.e. 9m hull build no. 25, etc., I could be misremembering though.

I did enquire with Ribeye years ago who bought the Ribtec brand/IP, but supposedly all the build records got destroyed somewhere along the line and they had no data to help.

[kevinsc]

Hi Paul
Thank for the reply, I was hoping to find a bit of info on the boat past but if the records are gone that's a shame.
Cheers Kevin