|
|
21 September 2023, 18:04
|
#61
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi all
I started to remove the fuel tank, I was surprised when cutting the back support for the fuel tank the amount of water that came out and the support was sodding and rotten. But being new to rebuilding boat I wasn't expecting foam under the fuel tank.
Which leads me on to my next question do you need as much foam under the tank, because I would like to put a slightly bigger fuel tank same shape but 50mm higher, so would only have 50mm of foam instead of 100mm.
Thank you for the help.
Cheers Kevin Attachment 143752Attachment 143753
__________________
|
|
|
27 September 2023, 16:36
|
#62
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi all
Got the stringers out up to the joint and sanded the gelcoat off in prep for tabbing in the new stringers. Also started cutting the transom wood to make it thicker.
If you see anything not correct please any pointers would be appreciated.
One thing I'm not sure about is the hole where the stern drive came through should I cut on the outside of the bolt hole to get rid of them before I fill it in.
Thank you for the help.
Cheers Kevin Attachment 143853
__________________
|
|
|
27 September 2023, 18:05
|
#63
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,984
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinsc
One thing I'm not sure about is the hole where the stern drive came through should I cut on the outside of the bolt hole to get rid of them before I fill it in.
Thank you for the help.
Cheers Kevin
|
Your slowly getting past the worst bit, the stripping back & grinding it awful, putting new bits in is far more satisfying.
I get why your thinking to cut outside the bolt holes to get rid of any potential voids & its not a bad idea. Personally I'd leave as much of the original transom as possible but also understand the desire to get rid of the potential voids. I think I'd drill out the holes slightly to ensure no sealant etc remains then I'd find some dowel to fit & stick it in with thickened resin to completely fill the holes. You'll need to grind back well past the holes anyway to glass over the ply inserts I assume you'll be glassing in. Usually chamfer the hole to a taper 7x (or more) than the thickness of the glass so you don't have a hard edge which will eventually crack if you just butt up to it.
Neither way is wrong its personal choice which way you go
__________________
|
|
|
28 September 2023, 07:43
|
#64
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Thank you for the reply beamishken.
I think I will plug them up, didn't realise you have to chamfer the edge of the holes to stop it cracking. I will be fibreglassing over the transom with 2 layers to cover the holes.
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
28 September 2023, 08:44
|
#65
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,984
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinsc
Thank you for the reply beamishken.
I think I will plug them up, didn't realise you have to chamfer the edge of the holes to stop it cracking. I will be fibreglassing over the transom with 2 layers to cover the holes.
Cheers Kevin
|
Im assuming you'll cut & bond in ply inserts for the large hole? Once you've bonded ply in to the origional level Chamfer around the large hole before you glass over to build up to the the existing thickness. Chamfering the joint means you dont have a butt joint around the hole, its stronger as you have a larger surface area of bonded glass. If your going to glass over the entire outer transom thats even better.
__________________
|
|
|
28 September 2023, 09:25
|
#66
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi beamishken
I was going insert ply into the big hole and build it up the same way the transom was built and then put 2 layers of glass over it. I will chamfer the existing glass then building up the big hole.
Thank you for the help
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
28 September 2023, 09:30
|
#67
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,984
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinsc
Hi beamishken
I was going insert ply into the big hole and build it up the same way the transom was built and then put 2 layers of glass over it. I will chamfer the existing glass then building up the big hole.
Thank you for the help
Cheers Kevin Attachment 143860
|
Yep thats how I'd do it. I'd clean off all around the hole like you've started to help the bond & check for any damp that might have seeped in. Looks solid where you've ground though
__________________
|
|
|
28 September 2023, 18:26
|
#68
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi beamishken
The transom seems to be good condition. Glad I'm heading in the right direction.
Thank you for the help.
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
28 September 2023, 18:32
|
#69
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi all
Manage to get the templates cut for the holes in the transom and started to sand the transom bit of a boring job, but hoping the sanding is coming to an end.
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
28 September 2023, 20:40
|
#70
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Fort William
Make: Ribcraft 585
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha F115
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 2,919
|
Looking good.
__________________
There is a place on this planet for all of Gods creatures.........right next to my tatties and gravy.
|
|
|
29 September 2023, 13:28
|
#71
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Getting there got all the the ply cut for the transom just need to sand down the high spots on the inside of the transom before sticking it all together. More sanding [emoji24].
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
01 October 2023, 21:17
|
#72
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi all
Started to glue the transom together, I keyed the ply with 36 grit paper and put 2 layers of 300g CSM and clamped together. Hope I haven't forgot anything [emoji1696].
Thank you for the help
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
02 October 2023, 16:25
|
#73
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi all
Trimmed off the excess fibreglass and I think the ply and fibreglass has gone well.
It has taken me all day to sand the back of the transom( didn't realise it would taken that long). There was alot of filler to hide the transom insert but there wasn't any fibreglass over it.
My next question is I'm and going to be hopefully putting a 300hp outboard on the back, should I remove the insert as that should be the right height for a XL shaft?
Sorry for all the questions just making sure I do it right
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
02 October 2023, 17:56
|
#74
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Abersoch
Boat name: vanishing point
Make: phantom, Ribtec
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200hp
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 501
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinsc
Hi all
Trimmed off the excess fibreglass and I think the ply and fibreglass has gone well.
It has taken me all day to sand the back of the transom( didn't realise it would taken that long). There was alot of filler to hide the transom insert but there wasn't any fibreglass over it.
My next question is I'm and going to be hopefully putting a 300hp outboard on the back, should I remove the insert as that should be the right height for a XL shaft?
Sorry for all the questions just making sure I do it right
Cheers Kevin Attachment 143902Attachment 143903
|
XL shaft needs a minimum 25 inch Transom
__________________
|
|
|
02 October 2023, 19:38
|
#75
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi whiskeylee
From the bottom of the transom to the flat section of the cut out measures 26 inches from memory, but will check in morning to make sure.
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
02 October 2023, 22:21
|
#76
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: north ayrshire
Boat name: charlie girl
Make: S/R5.4/regal3760
Length: 10m +
Engine: Suzukidf70 2x6lp 315
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,984
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinsc
Hi whiskeylee
From the bottom of the transom to the flat section of the cut out measures 26 inches from memory, but will check in morning to make sure.
Cheers Kevin
|
That will be perfect for a xl shaft looks like its coming along nicely
__________________
|
|
|
03 October 2023, 22:21
|
#77
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi all
Checked the transom and it's from the bottom to the flat bit of the insert 26inches so at the correct height, once I resin the extra ply on to the transom I will then cut out for the outboard. Then fibreglass it all in.
Thank you for the help
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
03 October 2023, 22:22
|
#78
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by beamishken
That will be perfect for a xl shaft looks like its coming along nicely
|
I'm hoping that's me going into the rebuild stage[emoji1696].
Cheers Kevin
__________________
|
|
|
04 October 2023, 13:35
|
#79
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
Hi all
Clean up the sides of the ply and started to flattened out the high spots on the inside of the transom. Manage to get ply quite flat against the transom apart from the middle bit which has got a gap but all-round it is against the transom. When my f clamps arrive I will be able to get the 2 layers of CSM down and then some thicken resin with fibreglass in it (peanut butter), to stick the ply on and clamp it all up. Hopefully
Thank you for the help
Cheers Kevin Attachment 143905Attachment 143906
__________________
|
|
|
04 October 2023, 18:28
|
#80
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Edinburgh
Boat name: no name
Make: Hydro force
Length: 3m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 244
|
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|