Ribtec 725 refurbishment

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by kevinsc

You would think that well known rib builders would glass underneath the deck to keep there boats around for longer for their reputation. Everything is made to a price and sold at a high price.
Cheers Kevin

Yeh its quite surprising realy, both the ones I drilled were either coated in resin or flowcoat below the deck so some protection but I like a layer of glass & flowcoat myself.
I like everything fully encapsulated in glass then flowcoated before the floor goes down, definitely wouldnt rely on bare ply being able to breathe & dry out, probably the opposite will happen & it will soak moisture. I dont care for epoxy either its more expensive to buy harder to work with & takes longer to dry, polyester is waterproof enough for me. The best option i find to avoid water ingress around screws is use as few as possible & bond where you can, ie bond seats & consoles rather than screws & any screws you do use put a dab of silicone or sikaflex in the hole before driving the screw. The good thing doing it yourself is you can take your time & go the extra mile as you dont have as much time pressure as the builders where they need to keep jobs moving.

[paulbrown22]

Originally Posted by tinker

Look at the state of that stringer on the right, bet the deck was bouncing about a bit with that underneath it all, something satisfying watch all that rot being chopped away. Nice update BTW, very interesting.

To be fair that was after the boatyard had attacked it quite a lot in preparation for the rebuild... The deck was generally reasonably solid but had a few clearly soft spots in the bow area and around the mounting points for the helm leaning post, and given I was doing long trips in it at the time I decided to ensure it was properly sorted! Once they pulled it up they decided the stringers weren't perfect either, and much easier to do everything while the deck is up.

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by paulbrown22

Sadly very few pics as the guy doing the work dropped his camera and knackered the memory card. A few fuzzy photos he managed to retrieve attached, all of the work he first did under deck on the stringers. I don't actually have any of the deck itself going down!

That is some mess under the floor looks nice rebuilt, mine wasn't as bad but still enjoying rebuilding it.
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by beamishken

Yeh its quite surprising realy, both the ones I drilled were either coated in resin or flowcoat below the deck so some protection but I like a layer of glass & flowcoat myself.
I like everything fully encapsulated in glass then flowcoated before the floor goes down, definitely wouldnt rely on bare ply being able to breathe & dry out, probably the opposite will happen & it will soak moisture. I dont care for epoxy either its more expensive to buy harder to work with & takes longer to dry, polyester is waterproof enough for me. The best option i find to avoid water ingress around screws is use as few as possible & bond where you can, ie bond seats & consoles rather than screws & any screws you do use put a dab of silicone or sikaflex in the hole before driving the screw. The good thing doing it yourself is you can take your time & go the extra mile as you dont have as much time pressure as the builders where they need to keep jobs moving.

Yes beamishken your right it's better doing it yourself you can take your time and make sure your doing it right getting the outcome you want.
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Just a wee update. Got the most of the bulkheads glassed in before my night shift. But ran out of resin to finish it off🤦 always the way.

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Needing a bit of help with the bilge area. Wondering how your ribs drain the water that gets down the sides of the rib, at the moment I have a hole in the corner of the stringer circled in the pic attached. But was wondering if I should install a drain plug instead.
Cheers Kevin

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by kevinsc

Hi all
Needing a bit of help with the bilge area. Wondering how your ribs drain the water that gets down the sides of the rib, at the moment I have a hole in the corner of the stringer circled in the pic attached. But was wondering if I should install a drain plug instead.
Cheers Kevin

Trying to work out where that is do you have an overview picture?

[tinker]

Nice work, is the hole, at the lowest point of the section, might be optical illusion but it looks like its at the top of a slope, which wouldn't make much sense, at least to a rib Rebuild novice.

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by beamishken

Trying to work out where that is do you have an overview picture?

Hi Beamishken
I have taken a few more pics.
Cheers Kevin

[beamishken]

So thats a transom well which will be left open? If thats the case then its usual to seal it up but fit a bung to drain the under deck area into the well & another to drain the well when the boats out the water.
Presumably you left limber holes under the deck to drain behind the stringers & bulkheads? With the best will in the world you'll get some water below the decks so being able to drain the area is a good idea. I wouldnt just leave it open as if its closed off with a drain plug it will act as a bouyancy chamber too.

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by tinker

Nice work, is the hole, at the lowest point of the section, might be optical illusion but it looks like its at the top of a slope, which wouldn't make much sense, at least to a rib Rebuild novice.

Hi tinker
The hole is at the bottom corner of the stringer beside the transom.
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by beamishken

So thats a transom well which will be left open? If thats the case then its usual to seal it up but fit a bung to drain the under deck area into the well & another to drain the well when the boats out the water.
Presumably you left limber holes under the deck to drain behind the stringers & bulkheads? With the best will in the world you'll get some water below the decks so being able to drain the area is a good idea. I wouldnt just leave it open as if its closed off with a drain plug it will act as a bouyancy chamber too.

Hi Beamishken
I left holes in all supports so water can make it's way to the back of the boat, which are all glassed even the holes. The transom still has its drain hole and I will put bungs on the stringers in the bilge area so still able to drain it.
Cheers Kevin

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by kevinsc

Hi Beamishken
I left holes in all supports so water can make it's way to the back of the boat, which are all glassed even the holes. The transom still has its drain hole and I will put bungs on the stringers in the bilge area so still able to drain it.
Cheers Kevin

Yeh thats exactly how id do it too i like a well in the deck so you can fit a bilge pump to keep water off the deck & just use the elephants trunks if your taking on a lot of water on a rough passage. A totally flat deck is a pain as the elephants trunks dont completely drain the deck

[smallribber]

Originally Posted by kevinsc

Hi Beamishken
I left holes in all supports so water can make it's way to the back of the boat, which are all glassed even the holes. The transom still has its drain hole and I will put bungs on the stringers in the bilge area so still able to drain it.
Cheers Kevin

I know you have already do it but the holes need to be large enough that crud or similar could not gather and block the flow. Then a bung at the lowest point on the transom.

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by Easedalenovice

I know you have already do it but the holes need to be large enough that crud or similar could not gather and block the flow. Then a bung at the lowest point on the transom.

Hi easedalenovice
The holes I have left for drainage I have make big enough for stuff to pass through.
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by beamishken

Yeh thats exactly how id do it too i like a well in the deck so you can fit a bilge pump to keep water off the deck & just use the elephants trunks if your taking on a lot of water on a rough passage. A totally flat deck is a pain as the elephants trunks dont completely drain the deck

Hi Beamishken
Were thinking along the same lines
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi all
Wee update, Have finally got all the supports in all bonded in place and all fibreglass in place apart from the supports beside the transom, they just need fibreglass on them.
Cheers Kevin

[kevinsc]

Hi All
Finally got all the frame work tabbed and glassed in, didn't thing it would take me this long to get this far. Just need to get the pipe work it to run the cables in and the support brackets for the transom and the underneath should be finished.
Just a wee question I have got water holes in the bulkheads and the ribs but I haven't got any in the 3 compartments, should this be a problem ?.
Also I was going to run 2 cable run pipes down the middle either side of the middle support with the pipe in the pic attach will this be enough room for cables, one of the pipes is for the outboard.
Cheers Kevin

[beamishken]

Hi re the under deck voids without drains, if I were doing it I'd make sure there was a drain path from every chamber & the cable ducts too. You can almost guarantee if the voids are sealed that water will find it's way in somehow & wont get out. Theres a current thread about a scorpion with exactly that issue. Re the size of the ducts I always think big is better cos you always want something fitted later & having spare capacity is a good thing.
It's making progress which is the important bit too many projects get abandoned halfway through.

[kevinsc]

Originally Posted by beamishken

Hi re the under deck voids without drains, if I were doing it I'd make sure there was a drain path from every chamber & the cable ducts too. You can almost guarantee if the voids are sealed that water will find it's way in somehow & wont get out. Theres a current thread about a scorpion with exactly that issue. Re the size of the ducts I always think big is better cos you always want something fitted later & having spare capacity is a good thing.
It's making progress which is the important bit too many projects get abandoned halfway through.

Hi Ken
I'm still enjoying doing the build and looking forward to when it's finished. When I was writing the question about drain holes I kind of knew that it would be better to have drains fitted. Unfortunately the duct size I only have 50mm between the top of the fuel tank and the bottom of the deck might have run 3 ducts to make sure i have space.
Cheers Kevin