Salt Locked Screws etc

[boristhebold]

Im sure we have all come across something which seems to be locked through build up of salt.

I have a screw which forms the manual release mechanism for the power tilt/trim, accessed via a hole in the engine mounting assembly on the side.

So the question is - what is the best method of freeing up a screw or nut and bolt etc thats had years of salt water contact and become locked so that a screw driver or spanner in use won't shift it and can easily damage the head etc.

[charliee]

Liberal applications of penetrating fluid over a couple of days and then use an impact driver. With luck it will crack free and you won't damage the bolt head.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by boristhebold

Im sure we have all come across something which seems to be locked through build up of salt.



I have a screw which forms the manual release mechanism for the power tilt/trim, accessed via a hole in the engine mounting assembly on the side.



So the question is - what is the best method of freeing up a screw or nut and bolt etc thats had years of salt water contact and become locked so that a screw driver or spanner in use won't shift it and can easily damage the head etc.

For starters, pour a kettle (or 2) of boiling water on it. Then get some mild acid, vinegar, citric acid etc. Let it soak. More boiling water & then some kind of penetrating oil. Put the oil on whilst it's still hot from the boiling water. As it cools the oil will be drawn in. Leave it for a day or two. Then start by slightly TIGHTENING the screw, then back it off, repeatedly tighten & back off until it starts to move.

[gpsguru]

Depends what it is …………….

If it’s a straight forward steel faster that is rusty, them penetrating oil like Plus-Gas (not WD40) is the way to go.

If it is dissimilar metal, like stainless steel into Aluminium the issue is a little different as it has been caused by electrolysis, and the method described by Pikey Dave is perfect. Usually, with electrolysis locked components, heat is your best friend to make the Aluminium casting expand, then apply liberal amounts of boiling water.

If the casting is painted, then careful use of a heat gun is preferred, however, we normally wrap the casting compnent in a heat resistant blanket and use a small application of the gas axe

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by gpsguru

Depends what it is …………….

If it’s a straight forward steel faster that is rusty, them penetrating oil like Plus-Gas (not WD40) is the way to go.

If it is dissimilar metal, like stainless steel into Aluminium the issue is a little different as it has been caused by electrolysis, and the method described by Pikey Dave is perfect. Usually, with electrolysis locked components, heat is your best friend to make the Aluminium casting expand, then apply liberal amounts of boiling water.

If the casting is painted, then careful use of a heat gun is preferred, however, we normally wrap the casting compnent in a heat resistant blanket and use a small application of the gas axe

If it's the TnT manual release, I'm guessing it's a stainless screw into a cast ally or iron housing.

[Nasher]

I'd add that Plasticine is great for building up a cup, or dam, around a fastener to create a pool of penetrating fluid right where you need it.

Nasher.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

For starters, pour a kettle (or 2) of boiling water on it. Then get some mild acid, vinegar, citric acid etc. Let it soak. More boiling water & then some kind of penetrating oil. Put the oil on whilst it's still hot from the boiling water. As it cools the oil will be drawn in. Leave it for a day or two. Then start by slightly TIGHTENING the screw, then back it off, repeatedly tighten & back off until it starts to move.

spot on, the dam round it too if possible