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23 July 2014, 22:36
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 82
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schoolboy error...!
Got brave enough to try and drive my boat onto trailer for the first time but by the time I had put the trailer in the water, run around to get boat from mooring etc the tide had dropped a bit so when I came in I hit the rear beam of the trailer before the swing roller picked up the hull. Bu@@er...!
Have scraped/gouged my keelguard an inch or two but it seems to have done the trick and damage has not got through to keel. Is there anyway I can repair the keelguard (fill it and rub down for example) rather than peeling the whole lot off and replacing?
Cheers, 715
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23 July 2014, 22:47
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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oh dear, not good news
1st time I recovered my Revenger when it was brand new a RYA instructor demonstrated how to drive on to the roller trailer, resulting in a horrible grunching noise and little flakes of gel coating drifting away in the current, to say I wasn't impressed is putting it mildly, took a long time before I had the confidence to drive it onto the trailer again
sort, can't offer any advice with the keelguard
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Member of S.A.B.S. (Wirral Division)
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24 July 2014, 07:24
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revenger715
Got brave enough to try and drive my boat onto trailer for the first time but by the time I had put the trailer in the water, run around to get boat from mooring etc the tide had dropped a bit so when I came in I hit the rear beam of the trailer before the swing roller picked up the hull. Bu@@er...!
Have scraped/gouged my keelguard an inch or two but it seems to have done the trick and damage has not got through to keel. Is there anyway I can repair the keelguard (fill it and rub down for example) rather than peeling the whole lot off and replacing?
Cheers, 715
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It "should" be possible to set up the rollers so that the keel can't hit the beam no matter what. The rear cradle needs to be far enough back & the 2 sets of rollers close enough together to prevent the keel from hitting the beam, regardless of the approach angle. If you can't set it up like so, look at fitting a small "V" roller onto the beam in the gap between the rollers.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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24 July 2014, 08:36
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#4
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
It "should" be possible to set up the rollers so that the keel can't hit the beam no matter what. The rear cradle needs to be far enough back & the 2 sets of rollers close enough together to prevent the keel from hitting the beam, regardless of the approach angle. If you can't set it up like so, look at fitting a small "V" roller onto the beam in the gap between the rollers.
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Agreed. You should be able to slam your boat on the trailer as long as you get the bow between the stanchions (Trailer guide bars). If it hits the trailer, you need another roller. In theory you should be able to winch it off the ground, onto the trailer only touching rollers (Especially if it falls off the trailer )
Now that you have the first scratch in it, you have broken it in and it is ready to perform for you In other words the keep guard worked, and it is a superficial damage.
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24 July 2014, 09:33
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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I had similar the first time i winched on. (thankfully before i sorted the hull out!).
Other trick is once you have moved the swing beam far enough back a length or two of bungee will make sure the rollers are guaranteed to be facing the right way when you get back!
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24 July 2014, 11:10
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Make: extreme 24
Length: 7m +
Engine: merc 6.2 320hp
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 711
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bunks
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24 July 2014, 17:31
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 7m +
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 82
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Thanks chaps for the advice - where does one get the small V rollers from?
Also on the repairing question - thinking maybe re-glue and fill a bit with some sikaflex, but anyone got any better ideas? It's not a huge issue but looks a bit unsightly and my boat is immaculate (fussy git...!).
Cheers,
715
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24 July 2014, 19:35
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#8
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Member
Country: USA
Town: NorCal
Boat name: SHARKY
Make: AB
Length: 4m +
Engine: Honda BF75 & BF5
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,100
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Amazon, Ebay, most any marine store, and every marine trailer outfitter should have boat rollers.
I had never seen rollers set up like in the thread below before. Maybe your trailers needs some rollers there in the middle of the trailer, but I would use a regular boat roller.
http://www.rib.net/forum/f16/avon-so...tml#post634873
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25 July 2014, 07:30
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#9
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Member
Town: Belper
Boat name: Ey up mi duck
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 392
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Now you have all put the s****ers up me . We were shown how to recover on our PB2 course by driving it on so it's the only way I have done it since .
What do you guys do if you don't do that. Do you let more of the winch cable out and wade out to hook it up ?
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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25 July 2014, 08:06
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedonna
Now you have all put the s****ers up me . We were shown how to recover on our PB2 course by driving it on so it's the only way I have done it since .
What do you guys do if you don't do that. Do you let more of the winch cable out and wade out to hook it up ?
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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Yup. Or normal MO is I approach the slip, missus jumps out & hold onto the painter. I kill & tilt engines, jump out, fetch car/trailer, reverse down slip, snub boat into rear cradle, hook on & winch. There is a slip in France that we use that can be a tad lairy if it's blowing onshore & the missus isn't strong enough to hold the boat. It's inside a small harbour but the slip is at 90deg to the swell that runs into the harbour mouth. What we do here, is come into the harbour, tie up alongside, get the trailer onto the slip & drive the boat onto the trailer. I leave the engines running & in gear (I know, I know! before anybody says anything ) jump out hook on & get some weight on the winch before I stop the engines.
Having the trailer properly set up is a must, & is time well spent as the OP has found out.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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25 July 2014, 09:00
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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715, have you a photo of the rib on the trailer taken from the back so we can see how the rollers are setup, my 715 hull is no where near the swing beam when launching or recovering
__________________
Member of S.A.B.S. (Wirral Division)
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25 July 2014, 09:12
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#12
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Member
Town: Belper
Boat name: Ey up mi duck
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave
Yup. Or normal MO is I approach the slip, missus jumps out & hold onto the painter. I kill & tilt engines, jump out, fetch car/trailer, reverse down slip, snub boat into rear cradle, hook on & winch. There is a slip in France that we use that can be a tad lairy if it's blowing onshore & the missus isn't strong enough to hold the boat. It's inside a small harbour but the slip is at 90deg to the swell that runs into the harbour mouth. What we do here, is come into the harbour, tie up alongside, get the trailer onto the slip & drive the boat onto the trailer. I leave the engines running & in gear (I know, I know! before anybody says anything ) jump out hook on & get some weight on the winch before I stop the engines.
Having the trailer properly set up is a must, & is time well spent as the OP has found out.
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That might help save our marriage . I currently drop donna off at pontoon she legs it round attempts to reverse the trailer down the slipway , gives up and asks someone to do it . Then I drive boat onto trailer hold it in place with engine on low until she hooks up then we winch it on . If it's quiet and we have a pontoon I reverse the trailer down and then leg it to boat and drive it on . Donna is not comfy with the idea of driving the boat on hence having to do the trailer reverse .
Your method could make life a bit easier or. I could just not bother telling her
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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25 July 2014, 09:18
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,252
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I do not like dunking my trailer hubs so always have only gone in up to them and pushed boat off and winched back on again!
On my current set up for my 6m as a precaution I have rapped an old door mat (have used carpet too on anther trailer) around the rear cross member with cable ties holding it on,
So If I do run in to it it's now protected, worked for 3 or 4 years with out a problem
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Member of the Ribeye supporters club!!!
Member of Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Member of SR4 club
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25 July 2014, 09:27
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#14
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Member
Town: Belper
Boat name: Ey up mi duck
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Hearne
I do not like dunking my trailer hubs so always have only gone in up to them and pushed boat off and winched back on again!
On my current set up for my 6m as a precaution I have raped an old door mat (have used carpet too on anther trailer) around the rear cross member with cable ties holding it on,
So If I do run in to it it's now protected, worked for 3 or 4 years with out a problem
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Sorry now got a picture of you raping a door mat . Hopefully you brought it inside before starting
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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25 July 2014, 09:32
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedonna
Sorry now got a picture of you raping a door mat . Hopefully you brought it inside before starting
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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I do like them ruff cores and dirty!
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Member of the Ribeye supporters club!!!
Member of Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Member of SR4 club
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25 July 2014, 09:42
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#16
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Member
Town: Belper
Boat name: Ey up mi duck
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick Hearne
I do like them ruff cores and dirty!
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Thinking about it I have been accused of treating my good lady like a door mat . Next time she says that I will remind her of what you do to them .
Sent from my iPad using RIB Net
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26 July 2014, 08:07
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Gloucestershire
Boat name: Osprey
Make: Osprey Vipermax
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-tec 300 G2
MMSI: TBC
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revenger715
Thanks chaps for the advice - where does one get the small V rollers from?
Also on the repairing question - thinking maybe re-glue and fill a bit with some sikaflex, but anyone got any better ideas? It's not a huge issue but looks a bit unsightly and my boat is immaculate (fussy git...!).
Cheers,
715
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Hi, sikaflex will stick back any lifted bits of keel guard, if you use a heat gun to warm the area first it can make you life easier. If you lost a big chunk I would cut out the section and just replace that piece, saves a costly replacement.
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Chris Stevens
Born fiddler
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