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Old 04 June 2008, 22:52   #1
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self draining.... like the titanic!!

This is 3rd time ive come to find my boat in this state!! each time a different malfunction has created what i can only term a single point failure!!!

I think its time to retro fit a good old fashioned bung, a rewire and battery move aswell!!

Today was the worst and broke my heart, she was 6"-8" deep up the jockey seats, if shed been in the water i think Id be now looking at an insurance claim and all this occured in one week!!

Problems so far.

Flat battery caused both bilges to flood (solar panel fitted).

Rear bilge pump packed up and middle one decided not to work so boat flooded again. (new bilge pump)

I stupidly fitted a new bilge pump without testing circuit...there was an additional join in the cable which was hidden about 10" into loom and was broke, this then caused a short as water level increased taking out the supply!!!! the battery main fuses were swimming aswell as mounted far below what id call a flood line!!!

Interested if anyone else had similar "self draining" issues and how they have been resolved.

Ta gt
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Old 04 June 2008, 23:09   #2
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I know it is a pathetic suggestion, but I think the only sure way to avoid this is to chock the wheels, raise the bow and leave the elephants trunk down.

That way, there is little to stop the water draining. Putting a cover on is not foolproof in our winds.

I had a similar problem with a dory that was seldom used and the grief level each time I walked up to the boat was incredible. It seems as if any fix that can go wrong does go wrong, sooner or later!

Deepest sympathies!
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Old 04 June 2008, 23:32   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JABS View Post
I know it is a pathetic suggestion, but I think the only sure way to avoid this is to chock the wheels, raise the bow and leave the elephants trunk down.

That way, there is little to stop the water draining. Putting a cover on is not foolproof in our winds.

I had a similar problem with a dory that was seldom used and the grief level each time I walked up to the boat was incredible. It seems as if any fix that can go wrong does go wrong, sooner or later!

Deepest sympathies!

unfortunately thats not a solution! the main deck is the only part of the boat that will self drain beyond a certain level! the rear bilge will not and as it is linked to the seperate deck bilge it soon fills that one aswell!!!
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Old 04 June 2008, 23:51   #4
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I fought long and hard to stop my boat filling up with rain water when on its trailer, like yours the trunks are at deck level way above the lowest point.

I've now also fitted an all over cover, but before that I fitted a 3/4 inch dia drain fitting at the lowest piont in the transom, with a screw in bung.
A proper brass/Bronze one that goes all the way through.

One of these
http://www.aquafax.co.uk/html/produc...s.asp?ID=12449

It is easy to just remove the bung whilst the boat is on the trailer, don't even need to leave any pumps on or anything.

You do need to remember to put it back in though when you launch.
If not you'll end up hanging over the stern of your rib half submerged in the murky waters of the camber with Nos4r2 holding your ankles. I think you can guess how I discovered this.

Nasher
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Old 05 June 2008, 02:51   #5
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You don't need a bung - just drill a hole and stick your finger in it!!!
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Old 05 June 2008, 07:12   #6
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Can you rig up an external power supply (mains or separate battery) with a pond pump or similar to be your primary pump while on the hard stand?

That would leave your boat system as a backup.

Also the cover would help - I've never had any problems with a good quality cover - mind you it doesn't rain that much here - unfortunately.
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Old 05 June 2008, 10:00   #7
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i used to have a scorpion, i used to have a cover on mine, i never had water problems and kept the tobs in good condition

However it seems it need a little TLC with regards to the wiring, my pump once failed when in the water at Northney and let the boat full of water, it was down to a poor connection, i also fittel a second pump just incase one failed............
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Old 05 June 2008, 10:07   #8
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ive got a cheap ebay cover on the way as a quick resolution..... im considering a bung fr dry land as scorpion do not fit anymore!! I am curious if any other scorpion owners (maybe older ones) have a bung fitted, how high above keel line it is.

Id also be keen to see what gauge cable any scorpions with batteries mounted in console have.... I think im gonna move my battery to higher ground.
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Old 05 June 2008, 15:59   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtflash View Post
unfortunately thats not a solution! the main deck is the only part of the boat that will self drain beyond a certain level! the rear bilge will not and as it is linked to the seperate deck bilge it soon fills that one aswell!!!
There's no drain plug through the transom at the low point of the bilge? How are you supposed to get water out? Most bilge pumps only work to a certain extent, until they can't pick up water anymore. No drain means there will *always* be some water in there, which I'm sure is not ideal...

I keep mine as JABS described. All plugs removed, and let the rainwater rinse the bilge/deck.

jky
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Old 05 June 2008, 16:48   #10
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What we do is where we have an inboard engine there is a sealed tube running from the cockpit area though the engine bay to the transom and elephant trunks, that way water can drain straight out, there are of course 2 seperate bilge pumps for the engine compartment and the cockpit.

Wiring that has been spliced should be correctly sealed - we use glue heatshrink anywhere on a boat, and will "double bag" any cables that are likely to be submerged. Additionally tinned marine grade cable should also be used where possible.
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 05 June 2008, 17:19   #11
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no mate not bung! scorion say they do not need them!!! Similar setup to cookee deck either drains into a well under it which is pumped out or drains through tubing straight through transom but only at a higher water level. The aft section or rear bige is under moulded well and takes in alot of water! This is lowest point on boat and relys solely on a pump! If this was sealed or the deck bilge was not able to flow once full into aft the elcetrics would not be comprimised!

Cookee what heat shrink do you use?? Is it standard or "special"

Ive fitted connections submersible to 10m!
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Old 05 June 2008, 17:28   #12
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So if you could block of the shower drainer hole in the floor the water would drain through the pip strait out the back & not get in the bilge?
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Old 05 June 2008, 22:22   #13
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So if you could block of the shower drainer hole in the floor the water would drain through the pip strait out the back & not get in the bilge?
possibly!! the bottom of tubes would constantly be in water where it meets deck as the holes are quite high aft!! would that be a problem, algee growth maybe!! the rear seat does leak water on its own but it could minimise the flow
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Old 06 June 2008, 08:36   #14
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Quote:
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possibly!! the bottom of tubes would constantly be in water where it meets deck as the holes are quite high aft!! would that be a problem, algee growth maybe!! the rear seat does leak water on its own but it could minimise the flow
If the boat was tipped up there would not be much water be for it drained off!

Anther idea is to fit a pipe from your deck to run to the stern to drain the deck, I guess it would have to have a tap to shut it off when on the water as you wont have the height to drain above the water line! You could then have a self draining cockpit, on a trailer anyway!
I have this set up on my boat & it works very well but I can leave my tape open all the time!
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Old 06 June 2008, 08:49   #15
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Quote:
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If the boat was tipped up there would not be much water be for it drained off!

Anther idea is to fit a pipe from your deck to run to the stern to drain the deck, I guess it would have to have a tap to shut it off when on the water as you wont have the height to drain above the water line! You could then have a self draining cockpit, on a trailer anyway!
I have this set up on my boat & it works very well but I can leave my tape open all the time!
I also have this arrangement on the zodiac which includes a deck bung of about 1 1/2" and a pipe that exits just above the hull bung the other thing that i have is were the deck drain exits on the rear there is a one way valve (flap of rubber ) which works ok, my mate has a simaliar set up on his rib x but the rear outlet has a ball in a box arrangment which blocks the deck drain when the boat is in the water

the other advantage of this is that as soon as you get on the plane the Rib is empty



Andy
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Old 06 June 2008, 10:49   #16
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Quote:
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Cookee what heat shrink do you use?? Is it standard or "special"

Ive fitted connections submersible to 10m!
The stuff we use is the widely available heatshrink with glue in it - not that expensive in terms of a whole boat and the issues with bilge pumps failing, so I can't understand why some manufacturers don't use it, the same goes for the connectors - all of the crimp terminals have glue heatshrink sealing the wire from the elements.
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When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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