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Old 22 June 2021, 14:31   #1
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Country: UK - England
Town: London
Boat name: Blaster
Make: Humber Ocean Pro 5.5
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda BF150
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 71
Shortening an XL shaft to L shaft?

Hi all,

Do anyone have experience with shortening an XL shaft toward a L one?

I have a Humber 6.5m and it seems to be a standard L transom, but my engine is a Honda BF150 XL shaft. I have raised the outboard with a jack plate but not sure if this is the best way to go. It seems that my outboard is still a couple of inches too low (the water intake grid is about 2 inch below the hull) and by raising the outboard that weight 265kg I may put too much pressure on the transom.

Did anyone already modified the outboard’s size and would this be as a cost or job difficulty? Cheers
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Old 23 June 2021, 00:20   #2
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Country: Australia
Town: Dalmeny
Make: zodiac
Length: 5m +
Engine: outboard
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,250
Mentioned it once to a mechanic who told me its to costly and to swap motors is the cheapest option.
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Old 23 June 2021, 14:54   #3
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Country: UK - Wales
Town: Pembroke
Boat name: Rapscallion
Make: Humber Destroyer 6.0
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-TEC 150
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 360
Anti-ventilation plate 2" below the Hull is way-wrong and I'm kinda with you on the extra load/leverage with the jack plate.

Changing the leg and lower unit so make the XL into an L isn't mechanically complex but unless you can source used parts then a good used engine (if you can find one in Covid-world) would be way cheaper as you can then sell the XL.

Options I'd be considering would be.
1- Find a used Long shaft motor the same model as yours with a blown power-head and swap your power-head onto it. (if you can find one)
2- Re-engine the boat with a good, used L shaft (V. Hard to find right now)
3- Get a reputable boat builder to rebuild the transom to suit the XL. Can't stress the "reputable" bit enough! Check this first with your insurer as they may want a surveyor to oversee the work especially if the boat is RCD certified or MCA coded.
4- stick with the jack plate but keep a very very close eye on the transom for any cracking or flexing. If you spot anything at all, stop using the boat right away.

If it was mine and assuming I wasn't planning to re-engine it anyway, I'd probably go option 3
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Old 23 June 2021, 17:51   #4
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Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,920
This is what I did rather than a jack plate to put an XL shaft DT200EFI on my RIB which had been cut down by a previous owner.

It lasted many years and some really rough weather trips out, so I've just refreshed it to take the 225 Opti I have ready to go on.

It spreads the load nicely across the transom.

The lower engine mount bolt holes have some bolts in loosely in the first image, just temporarily to keep the rain out.

Nasher.
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Old 23 June 2021, 18:22   #5
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Country: UK - Wales
Town: Pembroke
Boat name: Rapscallion
Make: Humber Destroyer 6.0
Length: 5m +
Engine: E-TEC 150
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 360
Yup, that'd work too. Nice job!
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Old 23 June 2021, 23:59   #6
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Country: USA
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Make: zodiac futura
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nasher View Post
This is what I did rather than a jack plate to put an XL shaft DT200EFI on my RIB which had been cut down by a previous owner.

It lasted many years and some really rough weather trips out, so I've just refreshed it to take the 225 Opti I have ready to go on.

It spreads the load nicely across the transom.

The lower engine mount bolt holes have some bolts in loosely in the first image, just temporarily to keep the rain out.

Nasher.
I did the same metal load spreader on a sib many many years ago. My Avon Spitfire Sib had all wood transom factory cut to a height that was 2.5" too low. I fitted a wood block to match what I had to what I needed. Then with two 1/8" stainless sheets 4" wider on each side of filler piece, and a couple inches longer than bottom of motor and 9 stainless bolts plus the motor bolts sandwiched it all. Zero problems. But the motor was only 35HP from the 80's that weighed 120 lbs.
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Old 24 June 2021, 11:44   #7
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Country: Other
Town: Principalite d'Chaos
Boat name: The Nashers Revenge!
Make: Windsor Brothers
Length: 6m +
Engine: Optimax 225
MMSI: "Mmmmm SI" she said!
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,920
The Aluminium Plate by the way is 15mm thick.

I went with that thickness after discussing it with a local builder of large Aluminium Catamaran commercial fishing boats.
They use 15mm for the transoms of their boats and would happily put the largest of Outboards on it.

They also cut it for me all those years ago for next to nothing, and it cleaned up nicely for my refresh.
I did try to get a price out of them for a new one but they didn't want to know.

The other benefit of the XL shaft engine, on my RIB at least, is getting the powerhead up higher out of the water.
The RIB arrived with me fitted with a Long shaft 150VRO, and it was swamped by my wake every time I slowed down.

Nasher.
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Old 24 June 2021, 19:33   #8
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Country: UK - England
Town: London
Boat name: Blaster
Make: Humber Ocean Pro 5.5
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda BF150
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 71
Hi guys,

Thanks for your replies, appreciate your help. I like the idea of fitting the aluminium transom plate, a very good point. I was thinking about making a plywood plate with fiberglassing both sides, exactly the same way as on the pictures. Cheers!
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Old 24 June 2021, 22:17   #9
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Country: UK - England
Town: Guildford
Make: rib eye
Length: 7m +
Engine: 225
Join Date: Jul 2019
Posts: 29
Hi got the same engine and it measures 28 inches shaft length options xl , my transom is only 25 inches ? what did you take your transom too to get where you are now ?
Best , Al
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