Skipping teeth on cable steering - new helm time?

[Last Tango]

If you disturb the bolts the engine will need to be moved far enough to get all the old sealant cleaned off and new sealant put on all the bolts. You can't just re-tighten them or you'll get water ingress into the transom.

Regards sparks and "petrol powered engines", I'd imagine there's probably been more engine lock bolts removed with an angle grinder than with a key.
Fuel's in a sealed system............not an issue.

I wouldn't pi55 around....an angle grinder will go through the cable in 5 seconds.

[Poly]

Well I know you have been waiting with baited breath for with a victory post or the bbc news to report a boat going up in a puff of smoke!

Since there is no power at the boat yard the hassle of a 1hr round trip to get the boat home cut up, and returned, meant I decided not to go with the angle grinder. As it’s pishing down it was more incentive to work on it in the shed. At first I thought I’d get it out without doing anything but alas it was just too tight. I tried a hacksaw but either the blade I had was spectacularly blunt or it’s made of some tough stuff. So unbolted it was, then as I suspected there was so much sika still didn’t move but I manage to use the PTT to help break the seal, old part removed easily, new hydraulic fitted at the engine end. As light was fading, fighting inside the console to fit the new helm unit will be a job for another day.

Remarkably little swearing only so far. No explosions. However I would say that angle grinder would have been quicker - even with fire precautions and the tow to the house.

[gpsguru]

Originally Posted by Poly

Well I know you have been waiting with baited breath for with a victory post or the bbc news to report a boat going up in a puff of smoke!

Since there is no power at the boat yard the hassle of a 1hr round trip to get the boat home cut up, and returned, meant I decided not to go with the angle grinder. As it’s pishing down it was more incentive to work on it in the shed. At first I thought I’d get it out without doing anything but alas it was just too tight. I tried a hacksaw but either the blade I had was spectacularly blunt or it’s made of some tough stuff. So unbolted it was, then as I suspected there was so much sika still didn’t move but I manage to use the PTT to help break the seal, old part removed easily, new hydraulic fitted at the engine end. As light was fading, fighting inside the console to fit the new helm unit will be a job for another day.

Remarkably little swearing only so far. No explosions. However I would say that angle grinder would have been quicker - even with fire precautions and the tow to the house.

Either way Poly, its still pretty good news that you have got it 50% completed ...........

At least you will now know that the engine bolts are sealed to your satisfaction, so you can tick a future worry off the list ...........

Did you (or will you) sand the sharp edges off st the helm to save skinned knuckles and arms ?

[Poly]

Originally Posted by gpsguru

Either way Poly, its still pretty good news that you have got it 50% completed ...........

you measure time like my staff: I’ve got two jobs to do and I’ve done one of them so it’s 1/2 done - completely ignoring that the second job will take 4x as long as the first so I am only 20%!!!

Did you (or will you) sand the sharp edges off st the helm to save skinned knuckles and arms ?

Not yet. Must remember sand paper on next trip...

[jwalker]

Proper job, well done.

Angle grinder quicker...hmm, perhaps but as you cut through that tightly bent cable you risk it springing and nipping the cutting disc, it takes a grab and before you know it you've got a divot out of your transom! Then, of course the slot has closed a little and you've got to start over in slot that's too narrow and you risk the same again...after you've stopped swearing, that is!

Thanks for continuing the story, so many folks leave threads open ended.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by jwalker

Proper job, well done.



Angle grinder quicker...hmm, perhaps but as you cut through that tightly bent cable you risk it springing and nipping the cutting disc, it takes a grab and before you know it you've got a divot out of your transom! Then, of course the slot has closed a little and you've got to start over in slot that's too narrow and you risk the same again...after you've stopped swearing, that is!



Thanks for continuing the story, so many folks leave threads open ended.

It ain’t over yet, I’m waiting for the bit where he has to wrestle the hoses onto the back of the helm in the console. Don’t forget The bleeding finale[emoji6]

[willk]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

The bleeding finale[emoji6]

There's an F in finale.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by willk

There's an F in finale.

Grand[emoji106]

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

It ain’t over yet, I’m waiting for the bit where he has to wrestle the hoses onto the back of the helm in the console. Don’t forget The bleeding finale[emoji6]

Hoses are now in situ. Damn site easier to feed than the teleflex steering was to get out! Old helm unit removed, but didn’t have the right size hole saw with me so new one not fitted yet.

Need to get hydraulic oil as the kit didn’t include any despite saying it would. Then the bleeding fun can begin!

I’ve noticed that when tilted fully the bolt that connects the hydraulic piston to the bracket on the engine is slightly too long and fouls the engine mounting bracket restricting its turn. It’s not a problem at normal trim angles but when towing it fouls. Is this enough of a problem to buy a shorter bolt (I believe it needs to be a particular strength as it has all the load through it) or is it actually a benefit that it won’t slop around as much when towing? I can’t just add another washer to raise the head, as there isn’t any more clearance above it.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Poly

Hoses are now in situ. Damn site easier to feed than the teleflex steering was to get out! Old helm unit removed, but didn’t have the right size hole saw with me so new one not fitted yet.

Need to get hydraulic oil as the kit didn’t include any despite saying it would. Then the bleeding fun can begin!

I’ve noticed that when tilted fully the bolt that connects the hydraulic piston to the bracket on the engine is slightly too long and fouls the engine mounting bracket restricting its turn. It’s not a problem at normal trim angles but when towing it fouls. Is this enough of a problem to buy a shorter bolt (I believe it needs to be a particular strength as it has all the load through it) or is it actually a benefit that it won’t slop around as much when towing? I can’t just add another washer to raise the head, as there isn’t any more clearance above it.

If you’re enlarging an existing hole with a hole saw you will probably struggle. The saw will want to wander without the pilot drill to guide it. You can use a bit of thin ply to make a blank for the existing hole using the 4 helm mounting holes to hold it in place, then just mark it up & cut the enlarged hole. Put the ply on the inside of the console so that you can see the original hole. Apologies if I’m teaching my granny to suck eggs.

[Poly]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

If you’re enlarging an existing hole with a hole saw you will probably struggle. The saw will want to wander without the pilot drill to guide it. You can use a bit of thin ply to make a blank for the existing hole using the 4 helm mounting holes to hold it in place, then just mark it up & cut the enlarged hole. Put the ply on the inside of the console so that you can see the original hole. Apologies if I’m teaching my granny to suck eggs.

Your granny will have very good eggs, cos she practiced much but also she listened to the advice of many other egg suckers to perfect her skills! Its a problem I've had before so I was certainly conscious of the issue. As it happens the (HDPE c 6mm thick) console already has a thick lump of marine ply behind it reinforcing the helm unit. Unfortunately it also has a bloody great hole in it! I will be able to do roughly as you say though to give the centre drill of the hole saw something to grip on and guide it in. The good thing is the HDPE cuts so much easier than fibre glass I'll be through it like a knife through butteran angle grinder through a steering cable.

[paintman]

Borrow a battery powered drill & use a coarse grit flap wheel to enlarge the hole.

[Poly]

Originally Posted by paintman

Borrow a battery powered drill & use a coarse grit flap wheel to enlarge the hole.

I'm getting excited - I might have my very own RIBnet hole drilling thread. That probably only makes sense to the really old timers here...

[jwalker]

If I'm understanding correctly about the bolt, can't you just remove it and hacksaw it to the correct length?

Re the hydraulic fluid, I'm in Linlithgow next Monday evening, I can donate some to you if you'd like.

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by jwalker

If I'm understanding correctly about the bolt, can't you just remove it and hacksaw it to the correct length?

Or grind it off

[Poly]

Originally Posted by jwalker

If I'm understanding correctly about the bolt, can't you just remove it and hacksaw it to the correct length?

of course I can, I'm lazy and given the cutting cable attempt would need to buy a new hacksaw blade at least - so might as well buy a bolt. BUT do you see any advantage to having restricted motor swing whilst towing? or could it actually do harm?

Re the hydraulic fluid, I'm in Linlithgow next Monday evening, I can donate some to you if you'd like.

Thanks for the offer. I contacted the seller who has apologised and is sending the missing oil on Monday. I'll up security though if dodgy folk are passing!

[jwalker]

Originally Posted by Poly

of course I can, I'm lazy and given the cutting cable attempt would need to buy a new hacksaw blade at least - so might as well buy a bolt. BUT do you see any advantage to having restricted motor swing whilst towing? or could it actually do harm?

Buy a hacksaw blade, in fact lash out and buy a packet of them, you're giving the Scots a bad name! Get bi-metal ones, they have high speed steel teeth and a softer blade to prevent them breaking. 24tpi.

Having the bolt contacting the bracket is kinda scruffy and sure to bruise your new engine bracket.

Thanks for the offer.

No probs, let me know ifn you need some.

I'll up security though if dodgy folk are passing!

Ha, there's gratitude for ya!

[phantom 19]

if seastar /Baystar you can use the bolt from the original Yamaha tie bar if the supplied bolt is too long. The supplied bolt is usually an ARP hi tensile one designed for 60mph+ boats but on a Yamaha 20 it won’t be a problem using the Yamaha one.

[Poly]

And she's completely finished and tested! She's been finished for a while now but the weather the first weekend and other life commitments last weekend meant I didn't have a day to take her over to Loch Lomond (I prefer to test there as if it all goes pete tong, I can paddle/drift and will arrive ashore somewhere without having to contend with container ships or tankers in the Forth!).

New engine hitting 26 knots, and with just me and the boy on is a smidgen over propped. The steering is like night and day compared to the cable.

[jwalker]

That sounds like a result!