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12 June 2013, 08:59
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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So where's best for a retube? Help.
I've heard good things re Henshaws but where else or which manufacturer would you use and most importantly why?
Ideally i think we want a re-tube and hull scrub to remove 5yrs of anti foul over winter. No real need for perfection glass polished finish as it'll be AF'd again. Also need new jockey seat and back rest pads.
Can you rip off existing handles and or rubbing strake and re use on new tubes?
we put thick rubbing strake material underneath the tubes at the back to stop the barnacles wrecking the hypalon. I think it was too much weight and now it feels like they drag dropping our speed massively. You can see the excess spray at the back at speed. That combined with a hull that's been anti fouled 5 times our WOT is 37mph. It was 51mph when we first got it.
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12 June 2013, 10:05
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Henshaws (Christopher on here)
RibShop
Tidel (Paul Tilley on here)
all have a good reputation, and are or have been trade members on here.
There are some "up norf*" too - Eurocraft and SIS. Humber will of course retube.
RibRaff (Ed Carter) has also done work for people on here - I *think* he works on more of a freelance basis that the others who are businesses with teams of people. When busy he can apparently be hard to track down.
* norf is relative as its souf of here - but probaly less towing for you than Devon
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12 June 2013, 10:15
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: Thunder
Make: Halmatic Arctic 22
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2 x 150 Etec
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 523
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Henshaws did a grand job for me, were honest about lead in times etc.
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12 June 2013, 10:20
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
Henshaws (Christopher on here)
RibShop
Tidel (Paul Tilley on here)
all have a good reputation, and are or have been trade members on here.
There are some "up norf*" too - Eurocraft and SIS. Humber will of course retube.
RibRaff (Ed Carter) has also done work for people on here - I *think* he works on more of a freelance basis that the others who are businesses with teams of people. When busy he can apparently be hard to track down.
* norf is relative as its souf of here - but probaly less towing for you than Devon
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Cheers poly, got a few months to research and get quotes.
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12 June 2013, 10:21
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GordyP
Henshaws did a grand job for me, were honest about lead in times etc.
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When did you get it done?
Got any pics please?
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12 June 2013, 10:37
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#6
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,898
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H-P, do you really need a retube? How old are they?
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12 June 2013, 11:51
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,166
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Mick recently had Bouncer retubed at Henshaws, I think he was pleased with the job they did, worth dropping him a PM.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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12 June 2013, 12:22
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
H-P, do you really need a retube? How old are they?
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2008
The ends seem to be sagging and dragging in the water. Tops and sides etc are fine. A little faded but not bad.
Not sure what else to do? ....
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12 June 2013, 12:56
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
Length: 8m +
Engine: Cat3126 Yam 90 &70
MMSI: 42
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL
I've heard good things re Henshaws but where else or which manufacturer would you use and most importantly why?
Can you rip off existing handles and or rubbing strake and re use on new tubes?
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Henshaws are fine. Eurocraft (SIT) (I think they are different companies but some of Eurocrafts talent set up SIT). are ok but I always use Paul Tilley He's very good and cares about his customers and he's a man you can trust.
in thory yes you can but it will need to be reprepped and will always look older than thee tubes. Few retubers would want to do it as its going to make their work look iffy
[QUOTE=HUMBER P4VWL;545224Ideally i think we want a re-tube and hull scrub to remove 5yrs of anti foul over winter. No real need for perfection glass polished finish as it'll be AF'd again. Also need new jockey seat and back rest pads.
Do you Know DM hes very good at sorting that out failing that Mike at Osprey
QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL
we put thick rubbing strake material underneath the tubes at the back to stop the barnacles wrecking the hypalon. .
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Some people coat the underside of the tubes with Marge or dripping as that prevents the barnacles from forming. Somebody will probably be along to correct me and tell you it's Tripe but its that kinds stuff definitely not butter
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Soul possession, Got me in a trance
Pullin' me back to you - Deja Voodoo
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12 June 2013, 13:00
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#10
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue Wave
Somebody will probably be along to correct me and tell you it's Tripe but its that kinds stuff definitely not butter
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You'd never get tripe to stick
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12 June 2013, 13:18
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#11
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RIBnet admin team
Country: Ireland
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 14,898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL
2008
The ends seem to be sagging and dragging in the water. Tops and sides etc are fine. A little faded but not bad.
Not sure what else to do? ....
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Before you retube:
Get your hull soda or CO2 blasted and use an antifoul that can be powerwashed off when you haul her in the autumn.
Pump the tubes up to the correct pressure (well hard) and don't worry too much about them until they get damaged.
Have the engine's compression checked - just in case....
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12 June 2013, 13:24
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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you've lost 12 knots... ...water in the hull?
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12 June 2013, 13:32
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#13
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
You'd never get tripe to stick
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You'd be surprised what'll stick with Hypalon glue
I'm going to try coating the underside of mine and the lower unit with lanolin after discovering some antifoul is lanolin based.
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12 June 2013, 14:02
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willk
Before you retube:
Get your hull soda or CO2 blasted and use an antifoul that can be powerwashed off when you haul her in the autumn.
Pump the tubes up to the correct pressure (well hard) and don't worry too much about them until they get damaged.
Have the engine's compression checked - just in case....
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Engine seems fine. It's trying but you can feel the boat is slow. Engines only done < 200hrs and is 5 yr old with immaculate service history and winterising etc
Water in hull shouldn't be a problem as we have the bung out at the back so underdeck drains in to the well. Nowhere else water could be.
Would the hull clean really make a difference in speed?
May be right re pumping her up, it's always soft as we leave it on the mooring and don't have pressure release valves. That may well help actually. Our tubes sit low anyway on the Humber.
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12 June 2013, 14:04
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
you've lost 12 knots... ...water in the hull?
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Do you mean in the hull itself? Or just under deck? As the rear bung's out anyway to let water in to rear well.
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12 June 2013, 14:19
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wirral & Caernarfon
Boat name: That's Enuff
Make: Revenger & Avon SR4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Honda 150HP & 50HP
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 4,421
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HP, there may well be another reason that the tubes are dragging, they always seem clear of the water when we pass the Cardinal Buoy on the mooring
but, apart from the insults, I have found Mike at Osprey Ribs to be very helpfull over the last few weeks when I have discussed at length the impending SR4 Project with him, and he can also supply the jockey seats, benchs etc that go into the Ospreys, worth a phone call, and they are only up the roasd from you!!
also, the man a SIT was very helpful, full of good advice re new tubes, again worth a phone call and in comparrison to Henshaws they are on the doorstep being based in Leyland, Lancs.
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12 June 2013, 14:21
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Town: Rostrevor
Boat name: Ricochet
Make: Redbay
Length: 7m +
Engine: Twin F115 Yams
MMSI: 235083269
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL
May be right re pumping her up, it's always soft as we leave it on the mooring and don't have pressure release valves. That may well help actually. Our tubes sit low anyway on the Humber.
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Tube pressure is critical - did I say critical to the overall RIB performance in terms of speed and sea keeping - always keep the tubes at their correct pressure - especially if the sit low at you say.
Typically the pressure should be about 3 psi - may not sound a lot but it is - buy or borrow a pressure gauge to find out how hard that actually is
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Maximum Preparation - Maximum Fun
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12 June 2013, 14:27
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: N Wales Chester
Boat name: Mr Smith
Make: Humber
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,238
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Tube pressure could be the first port of call.
2nd is the hull. How many knots could you lose from anti foul? Surely not 12.
3rd is the hull itself. Can you test to see if there's water ingress? Is it likely on a 5 yr old boat?
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12 June 2013, 14:30
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Ashton-under-Lyne Lancs
Boat name: IMOGEN
Make: Air-Craft 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki df70a
MMSI: 235087492
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 7,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HUMBER P4VWL
Tube pressure could be the first port of call.
2nd is the hull. How many knots could you lose from anti foul? Surely not 12.
3rd is the hull itself. Can you test to see if there's water ingress? Is it likely on a 5 yr old boat?
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You would be surprised how much water can get in down the cables and witches hats, I wrapped self amalgamating tape around mine which has helped a lot.
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Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
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12 June 2013, 14:31
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
Length: 8m +
Engine: Cat3126 Yam 90 &70
MMSI: 42
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,562
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[QUOTE=Ribochet;545321
Typically the pressure should be about 3 psi - may not sound a lot [/QUOTE]
Sounds like a lot to me. I always thought it was between I and 2
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Here it comes again, I don't stand a chance
Soul possession, Got me in a trance
Pullin' me back to you - Deja Voodoo
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