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30 August 2007, 20:39
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
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Stainless Steel ... seat hoops / aux mounting
Hot on my request for info on a suitable fuel tank !!! ... comes my request for some backrests / seat backs for my jockey console.
If I could even just get the Stainless steel hoops, I could make my own pad to fit on them.
If no one has anything hanging around their garage etc ???
then maybe I could get a lead on someone that can manufacture that sort of thing cheaply.
Following on from this, while away in the West country last week, I spotted a
Valiant 490 with a cool auxilliary mounting.
There is so little space in my SR4 for mounting/carrying an aux but this idea nailed it.
the Valiant owner had welded a bracket onto the back of the console seat hoop that the aux outboard was clamped to (side mounted) and fitted a small steel plate to the deck with a raised flange, drilled with a hole big enough to pass a padlock through, as was the skeg of the aux. Clamped and locked!
it looked very secure, something I fancy for the SR4!
Any suggestions etc much appreciated...
thanks
Andy
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30 August 2007, 23:58
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustRib
Hot on my request for info on a suitable fuel tank !!! ... comes my request for some backrests / seat backs for my jockey console.
If I could even just get the Stainless steel hoops, I could make my own pad to fit on them.
If no one has anything hanging around their garage etc ???
then maybe I could get a lead on someone that can manufacture that sort of thing cheaply.
Following on from this, while away in the West country last week, I spotted a
Valiant 490 with a cool auxilliary mounting.
There is so little space in my SR4 for mounting/carrying an aux but this idea nailed it.
the Valiant owner had welded a bracket onto the back of the console seat hoop that the aux outboard was clamped to (side mounted) and fitted a small steel plate to the deck with a raised flange, drilled with a hole big enough to pass a padlock through, as was the skeg of the aux. Clamped and locked!
it looked very secure, something I fancy for the SR4!
Any suggestions etc much appreciated...
thanks
Andy
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On a 5.8 , I had an aux clamped to the back of a centre Jockey once on a special bracket, skeg fitted to a block on the deck.. lasted a season and no more before it all rattled loose, no matter how hard I kept it maintained and tight. There is too much weight too high up in the power head when its standing up right, mind you it was a 10Hp, but I wouldn't have had anything smaller. Lashing to the deck, at the stern has been very successful so far, but I'm not happy with this either for fear of getting swamped.
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31 August 2007, 00:12
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
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hmm.. think I could get away with a much smaller aux for my SR4.
I was thinking about the Tohatsu 3.5 ...its light enough.
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31 August 2007, 07:30
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
Length: 8m +
Engine: Cat3126 Yam 90 &70
MMSI: 42
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,562
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I've Just had the misfortune to visit David Manning I did notice in his garage he had a pair of superb new backrests which he was about to put on ebay.
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31 August 2007, 08:39
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Ok then,.. call it a 6, since the 6,8,10 all shared the same block,and were about the same weight, the point is having vertical weight that far forward and high up didn't seem to work for me..and that was on a bigger boat ! Mounting further aft would be better, as there is less vibration further back. The only way I conceded this system would work, was to have someone fab you a special 'H' section on its side welded between 2 jockey seat backs, and have the motor mounted between them, but I assume you will only have a single row ? Part of the problem is that the motor constantly vibrates left and right, (as its supposed to when running) as the boat rocks during travel and this makes it hard to secure the power head.
For sure, a 4 weighs less than a 6 though. Is there any other way to get the head lower?
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31 August 2007, 09:11
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Mudeford
Make: Humber Ocean Pro 5.3
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90ho Tohatsu
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 137
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anybody out there using an electric aux? They seem small, lighter, you can turn them upside down for storage. Just an idea
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31 August 2007, 09:12
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
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hmm...I should really have asked the guy whose Rib I saw if he had those problems. It looked like a 4 he had mounted. I understand what your saying though.
The little Tohatsu weighs just 13 kilos I think, so I wonder if instead of the top mount being a spigot that it clamps to, it was more of a cradle with two spigots either side of the head to restrict any lateral movement.
I wonder how much the top half of a 13 kilo OB weighs?
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31 August 2007, 09:59
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
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Hightower just sorted me out with some seat backs (thanks for that )..
Andy
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02 September 2007, 21:07
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: 90hp
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 380
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Just a thought (which I'm sure you've thought about anyway) - One potential issue with having the Aux not on the transom is actually mounting the thing when you need it. If you're in anything other than a gentle swell, dropping an engine onto the transom without actually dropping it into the drink is really difficult. Also much more likely to injure yourself. On my SR4 I could either mount the Aux on the stb side where the steering cable came out (which required a bit of manipulation to get it over the cable, or on the port side if I disconnected the engine steering mechanism. I wouldn't like to do either in any form of sea,
I know there are some issues with having the Aux on the transom like it getting wet and generally bounced around but running it at the start and end of every trip at least dried it out. A bungee reduced the bouncing and wear on the tilt pin. I never had any issues with stability caused by the aux being there (especially with the tohatsu as it's so light).
In terms of the balance of the tohatsu, I'd reccon it's prob 1/2 to 2/3 of the weight in the powerhead and fuel tank. It's really light anyway so I don't think it's a huge weight compared to a person if you were to mount it on the back of a seat.
3.5 drives the SR at approx 4.5 knts in calm water btw.
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02 September 2007, 21:56
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
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Cool ..thanks for that..
Was it a long shaft or short shaft Tohatsu you had?
I understand what your saying about fitting the aux in a swell....maybe would need some thought on a special bracket that could swivel maybe??
its something that you hope to never have to use, but I realise the further out to sea I go on the boat, the more sensible it is to have one.
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02 September 2007, 23:08
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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I have a stainless eyelet under my A frame right above my Aux transom mount, so that a crew member can control the lowering of the motor whilst over the transom and I can position it in any sea, ofcourse a few turns round any frame with a rope would do just as well, ... but its a drill I practice anually with my most regular crew
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