Steering Seized

mattwarner · 02 March 2015, 21:27

Hi Guys,

Ive posted a running refurb on "the gallery" but thought I would post in here to see if anyone had any ideas on how to solve my stuck steering ram.

Basically ive managed to move it two inches as can be seen from the pics, this was with the grease nipples removed and a can and half of penetrating oil sprayed at regular intervals over Friday - Monday.

To get it moved this far has taken some serious pounding and I feel all ive done is wedge it further into the tilt tube.

Luckily I have a spare Teleflex cable so no issues damaging this one but just need it out!!

One option is to guy another tilt tube and just pull the whole lot but i have no idea where to get one from and really want to avoid throwing a ton of money into a cheap boat.

whisper · 02 March 2015, 21:41

Hot water dude!

RIB-Teccie · 02 March 2015, 22:26

Cut the end off at the cable with an angle grinder. Remove 3 engine bolts an leave the top one in at the cable side. Be careful not to snap the bracket. GT 85 to begin with then a paper funnel or old coke bottle over the threads at the end with the hole. Pour in ATF fluid and leave for a couple of nights. Then use an adjustable spanner to get it moving. Then once it moves work it round and round till its slack and knock it out with a hammer. It may be an idea to bolt the engine back fully before you begin hitting it to protect the bracket.

RIB-Teccie · 02 March 2015, 22:27

Missed the bit about tilting the engine at an angle.

biffer · 02 March 2015, 22:27

Cut the cable off and beat feck out of it with a drift/ punch, it will then need cleaning out, I would suggest get a piece of rope though it and keep soaking it in oil pull it back and forth until it's cleaned out. I have had them that needed reaming out, not a nice job, but be brutal to start with

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Poly · 02 March 2015, 23:14

What did you do to move it two inches? I've always found that hitting it did little but putting the biggest screwdriver you can fit through the hole in your picture I and using that as a lever to rotate it and help distribute the penetrating fluid worked well.

Peter_C · 02 March 2015, 23:21

Put the grease nipples back in and start pumping with all your might. The hydraulic pressure created will be very high forcing the grease into places the penetrating liquid will not go. Penetrating liquid is good to keep using though. You need to work it both directions a couple MM at a time if needed until it is free. Twist it as much as possible too. Every bit of movement will help break it free. Keep pumping grease with every movement too. I've been able to free up a few cables that were completely frozen that way, to where they freed up completely, and were serviceable after.

RIB-Teccie · 03 March 2015, 07:41

No, please don't put the grease nipples in and pump will all your might. I did that as a very young and inexperienced apprentice and the grease nipples popped out and stripped the threads. Slowly slowly catchy monkey. Try greasing once it begins to spin.

beamishken · 03 March 2015, 07:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by RIB-Teccie

No, please don't put the grease nipples in and pump will all your might. I did that as a very young and inexperienced apprentice and the grease nipples popped out and stripped the threads. Slowly slowly catchy monkey. Try greasing once it begins to spin.

+1
Don't the grease nipples only lube the tilt pin & not the steering ? I'm pretty sure they will do nothing for the steering shaft
As suggested above cut the cable off close to the threads on the other side & drift it back the other way till you get more movement
Then drift it right through

biffer · 03 March 2015, 08:07

Trust what I tell you, if I didn't know how to do it I wouldn't post an answer

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Peter_C · 03 March 2015, 08:22

Breaking grease nipples is a Chinese junk thing, buy American, as decent fittings do not break that easily, just don't try to remove the fittings under pressure and only a straight pull. I first tried the ATF trick for days and it didn't do a thing. Drilled a hole into the cable sheath (Without nicking the cable), installed a zerk and had working in 15 minutes. Movement is the key and it can be in any direction.

I too thought it odd that it was a greasable cable as they are rare. I have never seen a crappy Teleflex cable with a zerk on it. Even the larger Morse cables don't have zerks. Zerks on the pivot does make sense, and won't do anything to help with cable removal.

mattwarner · 03 March 2015, 08:51

Thanks for all your suggestions guys, will give those a go.

I have tried hot water and didn't do anything and the end with the hole for the drop link rotates by itself so I cant use this to lever it round.

I think I will try the suggestion of dropping the outboard at an angle and then funnel in some ATF or Diesel.

biffer · 03 March 2015, 12:08

You can lead a horse to water! I give up

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PeterM · 03 March 2015, 12:39

I'll head to Matts house at some point with a suitable set of power tools to cut the cable and punch it out .

A new (old ) cable is ready to go in ...courtesy of Mr AJ searider project

Anyone know the diameter of the inside of a standard tilt tube -- I think I may have a drill to run down the inside to clean it up...

office888 · 03 March 2015, 13:01

I'd probably use an air hammer with a pointy "punch" type bit on it.

I'd also cut the cable off...then put some vice grips on the "tab" end and try to twist it. Every time it twists a little bit, add some penetrating oil to the grease fittings.

biffer · 03 March 2015, 13:29

It's about 14 mm. Unless you can get grips on the outer tube you are wasting your time. The lug with the hole in it will just spin as it attached to the inner cable. Same the other end. Make sure the drift is a snug fit in the tilt tube otherwise you will spread the old cable and make it harder

Davie · 03 March 2015, 15:57

The grease nipples only grease between the saddle and the tilt tube. Putting grease or oil in the 2 grease nipple holes will do Sweet Fanny Adams unless you drill a hole through the grease nipple holes and the tilt tube itself. If you cant punch it out with somebody holding the wheel with little force to port it will not come out without suspending the engine on a hoist and removing the tilt tube with the cable still inside it and giving it a good heat.

matt h · 03 March 2015, 16:45

As Biffer just said.wd40 and beat the fu%ck out of it.. right next one.....aaaaaaghhhh

PeterM · 03 March 2015, 16:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by matt h

As Biffer just said.wd40 and beat the fu%ck out of it.. right next one.....aaaaaaghhhh

get down here and get it fixed ...the steering from your old tub is waiting to go on it !

HURRY UUUUUUPPPPPP

matt h · 03 March 2015, 17:13

Owwww... OK Im coming down now.. bluddy ell!