Steering Wheel set up for Bombard Aerotec

[3collinso]

Originally Posted by Fenlander

Re wheels...

Probably the strongest with the largest tyres are the OE Zodiac/Bombard ones. They lift the outboard well clear of the ground and clip straight onto the existing buttons/holes as on a new boat. But they don't flip/swing up so raising and dropping can be a faff and in the stored posn they sit somewhat akwardly on the boat.

They are some daft price like £250 from Zodiac and often fetch £75-£125 used.

I owned a set of those for many years and due to their weight/size always removed them completely after launch and took them back to the car.

I have now moved onto the flip up type and prefer the Trem brand as they are very well made and robust... I'm on my third set of the HD trems now and can't fault them. You ideally need the HD version which engages with the OE buttons on an Aerotec but you do have to drill 8 holes for the upper brackets.

Have a look at this thread where I was given advice then fitted my Trems.

http://www.rib.net/forum/f50/trem-hd...tec-69303.html

I'll have to take a look at those, I used to have the flip up style ones on my old quicksilver but when I used to give her a good thrashing the inevitable used to happen and they used to bounce up and flip back down

[Fenlander]

>>>when I used to give her a good thrashing the inevitable used to happen and they used to bounce up and flip back down

That's why I like the Trem HD type.

With that bottom button they have a good load capacity that's supported in the right place to avoid the possibility of a leg failing during keen trundling. Also the leg is held in place with far more positive engagement due to the button tab friction. The degree of friction and therefore security of the wheels can be ajusted by subtle bending of the button tab.

[Stevem]

The splash (torrent) got worse when i changed from a 15 to a 25 tohatsu to the point where i had to do something about it and had a transom plate fabricated. 3mm 316 stainless steel allowed me to raise the outboard by about 60mm which eliminates the splash for that outboard. Time will tell if it damages the transom in any way but plate seems to spread the load out so hopefully will be ok.



Just need to remove the excess sealant and repaint the ply.

[Fenlander]

That's really interesting... is the stainless plate on the inside too... no cavitation in turns??

[Neil Harvey]

David
Yes, running solo, and with the worst offender of all, a Tohatsu!
Will be lifting a bit more on Sat and seeing the result.

[Stevem]

Yes the plate goes both sides, welded at the top, its a really nice sleeve sort of fit and feels strong. Not experienced any cavitation and i think it could go even slightly higher for wake perfection but i really need to sort my tach out for the next time im out to check wot rpm.

[Fenlander]

Neil I wonder if you use a tiller extension? It is my impression the splashing (which I think we all agree is the water from each side of the floor's V meeting just forward of the outboard leg) is worse when the attitude is stern down when one up so these water flows "pop up" and join with more force.


Steve that transom does look a perfectly decent job from the strength point of view. All credit to you for being brave enough to adapt things to how you want on a new boat.

I've just noticed the oars in your small pic. I doubted the need for them when you first asked earlier in 2015 but having used the telescopic plastic/alloy paddles on my new Aerotec I think from a practical point of view you might have the better solution.

We are two up 99% of the time so paddles not too bad but I may get some decent wooden Canadian canoe types and fit stowage tabs somewhere as a halfway job.

[Stevem]

David I'm really pleased I fitted the rowlocks and because I fish I regularly row over very large kelp areas that I don't want to motor over. I'm not saying I can row against any sort of wind but they normally get used at some point every time I go out.
Gurnard was right and the aerotec rows quite well though if I was two up I would try the Canadian type paddles first because obviously I've had to chop into the grab rail.

[Max...]

At last I've found someone with more holes in their BAT transom than mine!

[Stevem]

Yes more holes but also more m8 bolts, so stronger!

[Neil Harvey]

David
Issue totally resolved with a 65mm lift, both one up and two up. Little bot of cavitation at times so need to play with trim next time out.

Stevem
Nice plate. Planning on doing something very similar!