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Originally Posted by RibbingRuth
You make it sound so easy.
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We did it on my boat, but it was almost completely stripped and got re-gel coated. Once at the floor level, a track saw cut a 45* bevel with a thin kerf blade, which was later easy to fill the void with a folded piece of 6" biaxial glass. The seat base had to be cut out too and a multi-tool with dust collection gets the job done. AB used fiberglass to set the tank. I found it easiest to use a reciprocating saw and cut the folded glass in half for removal. Using pry bars it took less than a minute to break it loose, and out the fuel tank came (Fuel lines were already disconnected). *shrugs* Maybe a half hour. Performing the repairs back to gel coat is where the time was spent.
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Originally Posted by RibbingRuth
Holes were cut in the teak deck to try to investigate and then the console, seats and deck had to be lifted.
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Ouch!
Quote:
Originally Posted by RibbingRuth
I’m not sure welding something that had contained petrol would be the safest option;
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By thoroughly cleaning the tank first and filling the cavity with an inert gas, it can be safely welded on. No oxygen, no explosion. (My fuel/petrol tank hadn't contained fuel in years.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by RibbingRuth
~the marine surveyor we instructed said the tank should have been made from a higher grade stainless steel and advised that we should have a new one fabricated in a higher grade. RIB had to have seats and omsole reimstalled and a new deck fitted. Not what one expects at the age of the RIB- 7 years old when fault first observed.
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That would have been good to state from the get go. A new tank it is...wait until you see the price