|
|
15 August 2009, 12:40
|
#1
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sheepy Parva
Boat name: Sadly Sold
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,731
|
Towing
We recently got called upon to tow broken down craft...no big problem...nothing big and heavy and only short distances in sheltered Estuaries.
However, we have no tow rope and thus relied upon the mooring lines/binder twine as carried by the other boat.
So, what should we carry and how does it attach to our boat in a safe manner for towing?
I think (?) the normal best practice is to link the transom eyes with a line and then attach a towing rope to that so that the whole forms a Y in plan?
How long does the rope between the transom eyes have to be? Long enough to sweep past the outboard but not long enough to foul the prop if it goes slack?
How long does the tow rope have to be? I'm sure I've read somewhere it should be multiples of wave pitch but as a rule of thumb in calm waters is it 5m, 10m, 20m...?
What diameter does the rope need to be bearing in mind I don't want to really get involved with anything bigger, and heavier, than your average family day boat?
__________________
|
|
|
15 August 2009, 13:03
|
#2
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: east cowes
Make: academic
Length: no boat
Engine: fresh air
MMSI: N/A
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 543
|
You might find it easier to tie the other boat alongside your own, making sure the other boat is further forward than yours. Also make sure you use springs (ropes) to take the towing load.
Nick.
__________________
|
|
|
15 August 2009, 13:11
|
#3
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: montrose
Boat name: rib tickler
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150hp Optimax V6
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 101
|
Tying the other boat along side you makes it incredibly difficult to steer.
Also if using a "Y" shaped rope (bridle) it is good to have a float on it to keep it out of the prop.
__________________
|
|
|
15 August 2009, 13:19
|
#4
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southport
Boat name: Qudos
Make: 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yam 115 V4
MMSI: 235068784
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,930
|
__________________
|
|
|
15 August 2009, 13:48
|
#5
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Enfield/Switzerland
Boat name: Zonneschijn II/Vixen
Make: Shakespeare/Avon
Length: 7m +
Engine: Evin' 175 DI /Yam 90
MMSI: 235055605
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 1,436
|
I keep a ski towing line and bridle on board for just this kind of thing. Can be clipped easily and quickly to towing eyes, and also clipped to other craft boweye easilt. The lines are normally floating line, and the bridle has a float. so less to worry about. towing alongside can be a better option, and one I did loads of in a summer job on the river, but not so easy at sea, with a rib imo, as not so easy to find good tying points, ropes will scuff tubes etc.
Besides, the guys on the last boat I towed were all smoking, not something I wanted close...
__________________
|
|
|
15 August 2009, 13:57
|
#6
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
|
its not a bad idea to have the Y bridle that can slide about that way you get a bit more steerage ,,if no tow rope use the other boats anchor line they should have one anyhow ,,
__________________
|
|
|
17 August 2009, 15:01
|
#7
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
|
Yeah, towing bridle is the best bet. have a play with the length and /or use a floating rope. I had one permanently attatched to my SR4 - could tilt the engine with it in place. the Yam 55 on the Humber, I ended up with a snap shackle on one end because it needed to be twice the "sensible using length" to allow the engine to tilt up.
As for tow line, Ive got a 30m floater, but for a small dayboat or another rib 10 would be the absolute minimu, and make sure you have someone on the other boat ready to cast off at milliseconds notice - especially if you are towing a yacht. If you stall, 4 + tons of slippery hull will overtake you & spin you round before you can say "oh sh!t".....
I've cobbled together a prototype emergency quick release bridle for mine which due to the Merc dying isn't tested yet, but if it works I'll post later with the results.
Alongside will work well if you and the other helmsman work in harmony.
__________________
|
|
|
17 August 2009, 16:33
|
#8
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sheepy Parva
Boat name: Sadly Sold
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,731
|
Thanks for the advice guys
I've gone down the bridle route after discussions with a rope making expert as discussed http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?t=28003. He recommended against floating line though as it's less strong and less durable. Rather, the recommendation was for 13mm doublebraid nylon 25m long that will attach to one transom eye and an 8 metre rope from the other transom eye that bowlines to its mate.
I'll probably never have to recover another boat as long as I live
__________________
|
|
|
17 August 2009, 17:01
|
#9
|
Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
|
Be really careful with nylon: the stretch can make it fairly dangerous should something fail. The line will become a large rubber band, and snap back in both directions (depending on where and what breaks.) I doubt the rumored amputation factor holds a lot of credibility, but the possibility of injury is cretainly there, especially if you have a cleat from the towed vessel being thrown at your head.
Better to use a low stretch line (polypropylene is normally suggested) with a high stength rating, if possible. It transfers more shock, but will be safer if it or the cleat/bow eye/whatever fails.
That said, I use one of my spare anchor rodes (nylon, either 7/16" double braid, or 3/8" 3-strand), as that's what I've got.
Towing astern is good for open water, but you can't really maneuver worth a damn.
In tight locations, tie up alongside and as far back on the other craft as possible, and go slooow. You can put a boat onto a pier fairly accurately once you figure out how the whole mess handles.
With an inflatable, you can also do the tugboat thing and nudge the other craft into position (though I wouldn't recommend it except as a last ditch thing, and definitely not in current/wind.)
jky
__________________
|
|
|
17 August 2009, 17:19
|
#10
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Sheepy Parva
Boat name: Sadly Sold
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,731
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
Be really careful with nylon
|
I'm planning on being careful with whatever I use. There's a balance here between helping those in trouble and putting yourself in trouble and I have no intent on the latter.
The breaking strain of the 13mm nylon doublebraid is 3.3 tons...the boats we recovered last week were probably both less than 0.5 ton and in sheltered water where the tow strain was relatively stable. If they'd been bigger boats and there was a chop/swell I'd maybe have made the decision to support and assist till other help came along rather than tow.
Thanks for your comments. I hadn't considered the flying cleat possibility
__________________
|
|
|
17 August 2009, 17:48
|
#11
|
Member
Country: UK - Isle of Man
Town: Douglas
Length: no boat
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 339
|
I have produced a number of bridles for friends who have seen mine. I use 12mm normal plait nylon rope and splice a snap shackle on one end and tie the snap shackle to the other end (which allows for length adjustment). I then make a short towing strop with a S/S eye spliced into each end, one slides on to the bridle and the other takes the end of the tow rope. Before i splice the second eye on to the strop I thread 1 or 2 egg-shaped floats on to the line. These floats are usually red and white and are readily available from swimming pool accessory suppliers, they are used to float ropes on the surface of swimming pools.
I have utilised this bridle to tow boats, inflatable toys and skiers and have yet to foul the prop. (until the next time!!!)
__________________
|
|
|
17 August 2009, 17:52
|
#12
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Central Belt of Scotland
Boat name: Puddleduck III
Make: Bombard
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50 HP
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,066
|
Towing along side is good if you need to put the boat back on a mooring and if set up properly you can put the boat anywhere, with practice.
The other reason its good to tow along side is if its a swamped dinghy, burst tubes you can use your bouncy to help to prevent further capsize. Esp. in sailing dinghys.
To set up along side you need at least two ropes, and put on springs foe and aft, as earlier mentioned , make sure your boat engine is behind the stern of boat other wise you will have no steering. You will find you can turn in one direction more quicker than the other.
We use this method for recovering waterlogged dinghy and placing 27 foot yachts on their moorings after there engine failure, or after craning in in harbour.
Long Tow behind is good for longer distances, but you might need to stop to bring them along side to get into harbour/moorings.
Use long lengths of rope and try and get it to sit on a rising crest of wave at least 4 or 5 boat lengths behind if not further. I am towing behind i usaully have crew member ready to cut rope if anything goes wrong, and i try my best not to tie on the towing boat usually asking them to put rope from bow follower then wrap around mast a few time and hold.
It good fun to tie about along side, and see how it affects you.
RYA Level II teaches the theory behind Towing & RYA Safety Boat course teaches towing and recovery of different craft practical.
I always carry 2off 20 metre rope, 2 off 10 metres rope, this along with a heaving line float able, plus various of other rope.
Main point we teach on level two course - always pass your own tow rope to the craft, this helps with salvage.
S.
__________________
|
|
|
17 August 2009, 18:13
|
#13
|
RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,632
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPR
Main point we teach on level two course - always pass your own tow rope to the craft, this helps with salvage.
|
I am sure I have read that this is really urban myth - and the provision of a tow rope is not likely to be considered "specialist equipment" that would significantly increase a salvage claim.
The contrast of course is if you were training people to provide a towing service (whether as a rescue service, or e.g. Sea Start, harbour master or similar) I am sure you would be saying "don't accept a tow rope from the casualty, always provide the rope as you know how strong, stretchy, etc it is!"
__________________
|
|
|
17 August 2009, 19:23
|
#14
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Central Belt of Scotland
Boat name: Puddleduck III
Make: Bombard
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50 HP
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,066
|
RYA Practical Course Notes PBPCN Publication Page 63.
see attached.
Maybe RYA got it wrong.....
__________________
|
|
|
17 August 2009, 19:30
|
#15
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Central Belt of Scotland
Boat name: Puddleduck III
Make: Bombard
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50 HP
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,066
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polwart
I am sure I have read that this is really urban myth - and the provision of a tow rope is not likely to be considered "specialist equipment" that would significantly increase a salvage claim.
The contrast of course is if you were training people to provide a towing service (whether as a rescue service, or e.g. Sea Start, harbour master or similar) I am sure you would be saying "don't accept a tow rope from the casualty, always provide the rope as you know how strong, stretchy, etc it is!"
|
I agree i always use my own ropes for towing, and RNLI etc will do the same, but the risk of salvage with these organisations are minimum ......
__________________
|
|
|
18 August 2009, 00:03
|
#16
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
|
its always been a saga with some yachtie/ motor cruiser types when the lifeboat turns up and the casualty boats skipper insists that they use his crappy tow rope instead of the lifeboats, sometimes nearly getting to a heated agument to the ,,, if i use the lifeboats tow line it means that i have accepted it , and they could claim salvage ,,, not understanding that the lifeboats tow line will be probely longer and in far better condition. and the fact that the lifeboat wont be able make it longer if needed without faffing about .,,nowadays i doubt that an rnli lifeboat crew would make salvage as the institution have said that if they did ,they would have to pay the institution for any fuel and any damages and as lifeboats are not insured it would be a very high risk .it could also possilby start to put people off from calling for help,
__________________
|
|
|
18 August 2009, 05:56
|
#17
|
Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Oban (mostly)
Make: Ribcraft, Humber,BWM
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outboards
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 632
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Polwart
I am sure I have read that this is really urban myth - and the provision of a tow rope is not likely to be considered "specialist equipment" that would significantly increase a salvage claim.
|
I think that the advice to use own warps comes from the fact that it has been held a valid salvage service to supply tackle to a vessel in need of it: for example a vessel makes a distress signal, a salvor rocks up and offers a towline = the vessel in distress is deemed to have accepted his help. But salvage services could also include simply standing by a boat in need, taking equipment off the boat, or taking a passenger ashore, so it's not that simple.
There is a difference between a contract for towing and salvage. Let's stick with salvage. In the very essence of salvage is the requirement that the vessel involved or someone on it must be in real danger (there is no claim for salvage without real danger) - and in those circumstances the sensible choice must surely be to choose the option with the greatest chance of getting to safety. In the case of the RNLI and others who have their own specialist equipment, use theirs. If it's one boat helping another, use whoever's equipment is best suited to the job. Not many people would claim salvage, but even if they do - I'd rather be safe at home and let my insurers settle a claim than still arguing about whose towline to use as the boat drifts closer and closer to that rather unpleasant lee shore
|
|
|
18 August 2009, 08:25
|
#18
|
RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,632
|
Ian/SPR,
I've had a quick dig around and can't find the article I remember. I am sure it was in a mainstream boat mag like PBO, MBM... and that part was from a lawyer (possibly even from the RYA!)
I'm not an RYA member but it would be interesting to see what the relevant section of the RYA legal site says (access to members only).
I did find this interesting article from the US (where the details may be different but the principles are similar).
http://www.safesea.com/salvage/law/a...son_myths.html
It does also discuss the difference between towing and salvage.
__________________
|
|
|
18 August 2009, 12:23
|
#19
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
|
i know the M.c.a. now have overiding powers to a vessle that will not accept a tow if it is getting itself into a critical situation ,which i think came about from the penlee lifeboat /union star disaster ....though one advantage with using the other boats anchor and line if towing a small boat is that if a situation arises, eg collision with another boat, you can toss the whole lot over the side and at least they will be anchored and not drifting about ,,,,,its suprizing how many small boats will start to tow another boat and then find them selves in danger from lack of control or the boat is handling not as good or the tides stronger than they think with another boat under tow .,,,and dont forget to show the correct signals when towing .
__________________
|
|
|
18 August 2009, 12:51
|
#20
|
Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki
Be really careful with nylon: the stretch can make it fairly dangerous should something fail. The line will become a large rubber band, and snap back in both directions (depending on where and what breaks.) I doubt the rumored amputation factor holds a lot of credibility, but the possibility of injury is cretainly there, especially if you have a cleat from the towed vessel being thrown at your head.
jky
|
nylon is ok when towing another boat but yes with the stresses of towing a heavy boat there is a possibility of serious injury ,,i agree with the roumoured amputation theory but i was also present when a young lad lost an eye when trying to recover a swamped speedboat[ new first time boaters ],.that was being towed up a beach with nylon rope and the bow cleat broke out of the boat and whipped back hitting him the face .
__________________
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|