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Old 30 March 2010, 21:20   #1
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Transom thickness

How thick is your transom.
I was thinking for a 5.5 mtr rib
12mm grp with 2" marine plywood sandwiched onto the transom thus making
approx 14mm grp 2" ply and another 6 layers of csm and woven roven .

And carry the additional grp one meter down the hull

Any comments ar welcome.
I would rather go over the top than not enough.
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Old 30 March 2010, 23:04   #2
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Have you got that in your living room .. or do you run a massage parlour ? (for rib owners)
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Old 31 March 2010, 00:24   #3
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Have you got that in your living room .. or do you run a massage parlour ? (for rib owners)
Its a Northern massage parlour... outdoors.
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Old 31 March 2010, 08:48   #4
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don't make it so think that you can't get the lugs on the outboard over it, and well done for avin a go!
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Old 31 March 2010, 09:27   #5
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From memory, mine is overall about 48mm thick - rated to 110Kg / 60Hp. Again from memory when I took the old trunks out it was Gel - glass (approx 2mm) ply (remainder) - Glass (approx 2mm) - gel (not counting the multiple layers of antifoul!)

Friend's 5.3 Ribcraft I can't quite get my Aux clamp over his, rated for something like 90 & goodness knows how many KG. Needless to say I've never bored a hole in it!

I guess a good start is to find an engine & measure the clamps.
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Old 31 March 2010, 10:18   #6
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the one I have just done for my 5.4SR is 52mm of ply and it is not looking too thick or looking like it is going to move.
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Old 31 March 2010, 11:22   #7
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Have you got that in your living room .. or do you run a massage parlour ? (for rib owners)
Its one of those Swedish outdoor things.
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Old 31 March 2010, 11:29   #8
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don't make it so think that you can't get the lugs on the outboard over it, and well done for avin a go!
Many thanks for the advise.

I have as you can see had the lipping for the top of the Transom facing inwards.
but can cut it to fit the finished thickness when done.

I have managed to pop the hull from the mould today but will have to wait for a few hands to lift it out.
I released it with Hot soapy water tipping it between the tube lip and the mould.

It near on floated away..
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Old 31 March 2010, 11:33   #9
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I'd leave the hull in the mould till you have the ribs and stringers fitted and maybe the deck, no chance of any flex then.
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Old 31 March 2010, 12:23   #10
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I'd leave the hull in the mould till you have the ribs and stringers fitted and maybe the deck, no chance of any flex then.
very sound advice
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Old 31 March 2010, 15:36   #11
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It's the size and shape of the knees and how they are fitted to the transom that will determine how strong the transom is and what power if will stand.
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 31 March 2010, 16:12   #12
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It's the size and shape of the knees and how they are fitted to the transom that will determine how strong the transom is and what power if will stand.
There be big ones to the top of the transom but hidden by a storage box either side the boxes will also hide any conducts / cable to the engine and hold a recessed fire extinguisher housing in one and a first aid kit in the other.

Also thinking of putting on a stainless steel cleat for mooring and of course also acting as a good base for an A frame. and not forgetting a small round access hatch.

Anything I have forgotten ? please be so kind as to let me know all help and comments welcome.

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Old 31 March 2010, 16:53   #13
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Assume you're running your services below deck, which terminate within the transom boxes. You can use neat ducting to run the services from the boxes to the motor.
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Old 31 March 2010, 17:24   #14
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Assume you're running your services below deck, which terminate within the transom boxes. You can use neat ducting to run the services from the boxes to the motor.
Yes all conducts under the decking.
thinking square guttering laminated to the hull with 6 layers of matt and roven woven
a little like stringers running full length of the hull. coming up through the decking in both boxes and into the consul.

What is neat trunking ? is it flexible
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Old 31 March 2010, 17:30   #15
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Quote:
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Yes all conducts under the decking.
thinking square guttering laminated to the hull with 6 layers of matt and roven woven
a little like stringers running full length of the hull. coming up through the decking in both boxes and into the consul.

What is neat trunking ? is it flexible
are you going to layup square pipe alongside the stringer?
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Old 31 March 2010, 17:37   #16
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Quote:
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are you going to layup square pipe alongside the stringer?
After the stringers have gone in .As i think there going to be taller than the 68mm pipe.
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Old 31 March 2010, 20:06   #17
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What is neat trunking ? is it flexible
Yamaha do a nice looking grey colour flexible trunk with plastic flanges which screw onto the transom box. You can also get the same stuff from IBS - around £20 for a 1 metre kit IIRC. These come in 1.5" and 2" diameter.

Like this:
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Old 31 March 2010, 20:28   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai View Post
Yamaha do a nice looking grey colour flexible trunk with plastic flanges which screw onto the transom box. You can also get the same stuff from IBS - around £20 for a 1 metre kit IIRC. These come in 1.5" and 2" diameter.

Like this:
Nice tidy bit of kit many thanks for the information.
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Old 01 April 2010, 09:06   #19
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The way we do our knees is to laminate and clamp together layers of top quality ply, and slot the last one over the knees which are already glassed in to the previous layer - hope that makes sense!
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Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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Old 01 April 2010, 13:40   #20
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The way we do our knees is to laminate and clamp together layers of top quality ply, and slot the last one over the knees which are already glassed in to the previous layer - hope that makes sense!
Yes it does to me many thanks..
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