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30 March 2010, 21:20
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: no name yet
Make: Still building it..
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115 hp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 582
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Transom thickness
How thick is your transom.
I was thinking for a 5.5 mtr rib
12mm grp with 2" marine plywood sandwiched onto the transom thus making
approx 14mm grp 2" ply and another 6 layers of csm and woven roven .
And carry the additional grp one meter down the hull
Any comments ar welcome.
I would rather go over the top than not enough.
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30 March 2010, 23:04
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: stramash
Make: Tornado
Length: 5m +
Engine: Etec 90
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 5,090
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Have you got that in your living room .. or do you run a massage parlour ? (for rib owners)
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31 March 2010, 00:24
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmuz7
Have you got that in your living room .. or do you run a massage parlour ? (for rib owners)
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Its a Northern massage parlour... outdoors.
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31 March 2010, 08:48
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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don't make it so think that you can't get the lugs on the outboard over it, and well done for avin a go!
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31 March 2010, 09:27
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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From memory, mine is overall about 48mm thick - rated to 110Kg / 60Hp. Again from memory when I took the old trunks out it was Gel - glass (approx 2mm) ply (remainder) - Glass (approx 2mm) - gel (not counting the multiple layers of antifoul!)
Friend's 5.3 Ribcraft I can't quite get my Aux clamp over his, rated for something like 90 & goodness knows how many KG. Needless to say I've never bored a hole in it!
I guess a good start is to find an engine & measure the clamps.
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31 March 2010, 10:18
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: fife
Make: Humber / searider
Length: 5m +
MMSI: ... - - - ...
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 720
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the one I have just done for my 5.4SR is 52mm of ply and it is not looking too thick or looking like it is going to move.
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“The only difference between men and boys, is the price and size of their toys”
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31 March 2010, 11:22
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: no name yet
Make: Still building it..
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115 hp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmuz7
Have you got that in your living room .. or do you run a massage parlour ? (for rib owners)
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Its one of those Swedish outdoor things.
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31 March 2010, 11:29
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: no name yet
Make: Still building it..
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115 hp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer
don't make it so think that you can't get the lugs on the outboard over it, and well done for avin a go!
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Many thanks for the advise.
I have as you can see had the lipping for the top of the Transom facing inwards.
but can cut it to fit the finished thickness when done.
I have managed to pop the hull from the mould today but will have to wait for a few hands to lift it out.
I released it with Hot soapy water tipping it between the tube lip and the mould.
It near on floated away..
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31 March 2010, 11:33
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Up Norf
Make: Avon SR4,Tremlett 23
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yam 55, Volvo 200
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,217
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I'd leave the hull in the mould till you have the ribs and stringers fitted and maybe the deck, no chance of any flex then.
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31 March 2010, 12:23
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chewy
I'd leave the hull in the mould till you have the ribs and stringers fitted and maybe the deck, no chance of any flex then.
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very sound advice
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31 March 2010, 15:36
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe, Devon, UK
Boat name: BananaShark
Make: BananaShark
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2xYanmar 260 diesels
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,225
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It's the size and shape of the knees and how they are fitted to the transom that will determine how strong the transom is and what power if will stand.
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Cookee
Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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31 March 2010, 16:12
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: no name yet
Make: Still building it..
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115 hp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookee
It's the size and shape of the knees and how they are fitted to the transom that will determine how strong the transom is and what power if will stand.
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There be big ones to the top of the transom but hidden by a storage box either side the boxes will also hide any conducts / cable to the engine and hold a recessed fire extinguisher housing in one and a first aid kit in the other.
Also thinking of putting on a stainless steel cleat for mooring and of course also acting as a good base for an A frame. and not forgetting a small round access hatch.
Anything I have forgotten ? please be so kind as to let me know all help and comments welcome.
Attached pictures of Plaster mould and finished storage box.
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31 March 2010, 16:53
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Assume you're running your services below deck, which terminate within the transom boxes. You can use neat ducting to run the services from the boxes to the motor.
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31 March 2010, 17:24
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: no name yet
Make: Still building it..
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115 hp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai
Assume you're running your services below deck, which terminate within the transom boxes. You can use neat ducting to run the services from the boxes to the motor.
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Yes all conducts under the decking.
thinking square guttering laminated to the hull with 6 layers of matt and roven woven
a little like stringers running full length of the hull. coming up through the decking in both boxes and into the consul.
What is neat trunking ? is it flexible
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31 March 2010, 17:30
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonar
Yes all conducts under the decking.
thinking square guttering laminated to the hull with 6 layers of matt and roven woven
a little like stringers running full length of the hull. coming up through the decking in both boxes and into the consul.
What is neat trunking ? is it flexible
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are you going to layup square pipe alongside the stringer?
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31 March 2010, 17:37
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: no name yet
Make: Still building it..
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115 hp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffer
are you going to layup square pipe alongside the stringer?
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After the stringers have gone in .As i think there going to be taller than the 68mm pipe.
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31 March 2010, 20:06
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonar
What is neat trunking ? is it flexible
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Yamaha do a nice looking grey colour flexible trunk with plastic flanges which screw onto the transom box. You can also get the same stuff from IBS - around £20 for a 1 metre kit IIRC. These come in 1.5" and 2" diameter.
Like this:
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31 March 2010, 20:28
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: no name yet
Make: Still building it..
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115 hp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai
Yamaha do a nice looking grey colour flexible trunk with plastic flanges which screw onto the transom box. You can also get the same stuff from IBS - around £20 for a 1 metre kit IIRC. These come in 1.5" and 2" diameter.
Like this:
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Nice tidy bit of kit many thanks for the information.
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01 April 2010, 09:06
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Salcombe, Devon, UK
Boat name: BananaShark
Make: BananaShark
Length: 10m +
Engine: 2xYanmar 260 diesels
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,225
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The way we do our knees is to laminate and clamp together layers of top quality ply, and slot the last one over the knees which are already glassed in to the previous layer - hope that makes sense!
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Cookee
Originally Posted by Zippy
When a boat looks that good who needs tubes!!!
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01 April 2010, 13:40
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: no name yet
Make: Still building it..
Length: 5m +
Engine: 115 hp
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 582
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cookee
The way we do our knees is to laminate and clamp together layers of top quality ply, and slot the last one over the knees which are already glassed in to the previous layer - hope that makes sense!
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Yes it does to me many thanks..
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