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31 December 2012, 11:31
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#1
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
MMSI: Awaitng one
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,339
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trunking over the deck
I am looking for large diameter trunking to link the console to the engine. what would you suggest for the job?
tsm
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31 December 2012, 12:35
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: N. Devon
Boat name: (Not Another) Nutkin
Make: Highfield
Length: 6m +
Engine: Outboard, Honda 135
MMSI: 232036183
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,047
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4" water pipe
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31 December 2012, 12:44
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#3
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Member
Country: France
Town: Côte d'Azur
Boat name: Beaver Patrol
Make: Avon Searider SR4
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,934
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IMO water pipe etc looks awful! Spirowrap (as used by Ribcraft and Humber amongst others) is much neater and looks very smart. It's also cheap as chips!
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31 December 2012, 15:26
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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Use proper rigging hose, something like this.... Yamaha Rigging Hose 25ft/7.62mm - YAMAHA Outboard Motors, Boats, Kayaks, Genuine Parts, Accessories & Servicing
It's neat and tidy, and hard wearing. Spiral wrap is crap, especially when (as most of the rib manufacturers seem to do) the wrong size is used. Nothing looks worse than a 2" diameter bundle of control cables, wires and fuel line are badly wrapped in 16mm wrap.
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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01 January 2013, 13:54
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Various
Boat name: Seabird
Make: own
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 11
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Try making your own out of grp. Use a length of plastic electric cable trunking from a builders merchants to use as a mould
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01 January 2013, 18:24
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler
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My RC came with the obligatory sprial wrap & it looked sh1te I ripped it all out & bought proper BRP rigging hose. It meant having to disconnect all the hoses & cables from the engine to run 'em through the hose, but the end result is worth it. I think it's laziness on the part of the rigger to use it on engines.
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Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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01 January 2013, 18:31
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: macclessfield
Boat name: Reach Out
Make: Quicksilver
Length: 4m +
Engine: 30hp Tohatsu EFI
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 301
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32mm 50mm or bigger flexible plastic conduct from any electrical factors, black or creamy grey.. Ask a control system panel builder for a piece.. They will probably give it to you, I would..
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01 January 2013, 20:51
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Plymouth
Boat name: 2XS
Make: Halmatic Pacific 24
Length: 7m +
Engine: 135hp Honda X2
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simsy
32mm 50mm or bigger flexible plastic conduct from any electrical factors, black or creamy grey.. Ask a control system panel builder for a piece.. They will probably give it to you, I would..
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It's called "Copex" used loads on my rib above and bellow deck.
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Ian A
www.austinmarine.co.uk
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01 January 2013, 23:15
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 196
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Spiral wrap looks ok if it's the correct size and care is taken to fit it neatly but I can tell you from experience that its a massive PITA if you need to take it all off in order to replace a control cable or run an extra wire to the stern for a new toy. It never goes back as neat the second time. If you are clever with your routing of it though it does allow you to have fuel lines, steering cables etc entering or leaving the main bunch of cables at different points and it still looks neat. You couldn't do this with conduit with out cutting holes in the sides of it in various places.
Good quality cable conduit looks a lot neater and is easier to pull new cables through. Also it protects the cables better if they are in an area where it may get stood on or heavy items dropped on them.
Guess it depends on your installation and where you need ease of access to the cables etc as to what will work best for you. Purchase either option from your local electrical distributor for a fraction of the price you'll pay at the swindlers.
Sent from my iPhone using Rib.net
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Freelance skipper, RYA Powerboat Trainer and Advanced Examiner
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01 January 2013, 23:33
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wakefield
Boat name: Bouncer
Make: Redbay Stormforce
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x Honda 100 Hp
MMSI: 235025718
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,177
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02 January 2013, 10:54
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#11
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Member
Country: France
Town: Côte d'Azur
Boat name: Beaver Patrol
Make: Avon Searider SR4
Length: 4m +
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,934
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Nice bit of Spirowrap:
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14 February 2013, 16:34
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#12
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Member
Country: Ireland
Town: Castlebar
Boat name: Clewless
Make: Valiant DR 490
Length: 4m +
Engine: 60 hp ETEC
MMSI: Awaitng one
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,339
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I found nice trunking from IBS so I bought some. A bit pricy but it looks good and the end fittings are good
Large Cable Trunking 50mm Dia Grey Metre - IBS Boat Supplies
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14 February 2013, 16:40
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim M
Nice bit of Spirowrap:
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Where?
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It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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15 February 2013, 08:38
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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I've got about 300 metre of it here, haven't got the fancy ends though and mines is white, I say £5 per metre would help my beer fund
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15 February 2013, 09:31
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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+1 for Copex
Also if you use the 30mm stuff to cross the deck, you can run three (or more) in parallel and you get something a lot less likely to trip you up than a big 4" trunk!
I did that to the foot of the A- frame, then combined two of them into a 2" Yam trunk up to the engine for neatness - the third went staight up the botom of the A- frame "pipe" for a seamless join and the fourth was kept in parallel as it carries the fuel hose for the forward tank(s) and it was tie wrapped to the steering toob to get a nice little connector just below the engine Ther is a photo on here somewhere.....
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15 February 2013, 12:12
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Hamble
Length: 9m +
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,317
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__________________
It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt!
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15 February 2013, 14:14
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: swanwick/hamble
Boat name: stormchaser
Make: custom rib
Length: 8m +
Engine: inboard/diesel
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,848
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That's well cheap. I'll have to match that
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15 February 2013, 15:10
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Girvan & Tayvallich
Boat name: Breawatch
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mercury 150 F/stroke
MMSI: ex directory!!
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,203
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Another way is to get the bigger dia stuff and slit it down lengthwise wrap round and secure with cable ties. means easier acess in futire and all it costs you is cable ties
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jambo
'Carpe Diem'
Member of the ebay Blue RIB cover club
Member of SABS ( Scottish West Division)
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15 February 2013, 16:37
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,671
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....and means you can fit cables with moulded plugs through trunking they wouldnlt otherwise fit through!
Yes, I had to pull & re-feed 3 cabbl;es after buying toys that needed me to stuff a sounder cable with a 20-odd mm connector through an already busy 30mm copex.......
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