Arghhh! Had to leave the boat against a pontoon overnight instead of on her drive on dock as the wind made it impossible to drive on, turned out this morning and one of the knots on one of the fenders has worn through the outer layer of the tube, about 1cm length of damage,
It hasn't damaged the tube itself so to my mind (I may be wrong) the repair is purely aesthetic. what is the easiest way to do it, do self adhesive white patches exist or do I need to do a full on hypalon tube repair with the sanding/patch/glue etc etc.
My tubes seem to be a thin white layer over a solid blue inner.
Arghhh! Had to leave the boat against a pontoon overnight instead of on her drive on dock as the wind made it impossible to drive on, turned out this morning and one of the knots on one of the fenders has worn through the outer layer of the tube, about 1cm length of damage,
It hasn't damaged the tube itself so to my mind (I may be wrong) the repair is purely aesthetic. what is the easiest way to do it, do self adhesive white patches exist or do I need to do a full on hypalon tube repair with the sanding/patch/glue etc etc.
My tubes seem to be a thin white layer over a solid blue inner.
this is the first time i did it in the cold when it heated up in summer it produced a bubble, so warmed it up first second time, it looks bigger than it is to be honest, not got a pic of second time
The biggest problem with hypalon tube repairs, is you need an ambient temperature over 13 degrees to prevent the glue from blooming or skinning over . As 2 part bostik 2402 used with hardner will pull any moisture out of the air and feel wet on the bond . This will fail . I have worked with tube repairs and made my own tubes in the past . Use the correct methods and never skip . Any tears over 4 inches should be internally patched as well to prevent wicking through the hypalon .
You should repair that properly with a hypalon patch immediately before it gets worse. Especially since its near a seam
Exactly always use the right glues and strictly follow the adhesive spec to the book. I have seen seems fail overnight because the right temperatures were not adhered to. Use 1500gsm or 1300gsm orca hypalon as in my experience it's the best in the game for tube manufacture and rib tube repairs. As I said I would patch the internal too to avoid wicking . As wicking will give you a false troubleshoot of a punctured tube. Especially if your repair is near a seam. I have before also made my patches cosmetic with a shape or stripe and done the other side of the tube to make it look like no repair has taken place.
My tubes seem to be a thin white layer over a solid blue inner
I'm guessing your tubes are the same as mine, white uppers and blue below, if so then the tubes are built in two halves, the upper and lower are glued together, in other words the white isn't layed on top of a solid blue tube, hope that makes sense
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