Type of kill switch

[Jack09]

After buying my first Rib, I'm focusing on sorting the security and safety of the boat before I hit the water.

My 40hp Mariner didn't come with a kill switch chord. The switch is a toggle type shown below.

Could anyone tell me what connector I will need for it? I'm concerned that if a clip type connector is attached then only a pull directed downwards would kill it?

Is it easier to replace the whole switch for a more robust type ie pull out?

Thanks

[Chanchan168]

We had the run off toggle switch on our rescue Sibs. Swapped them out right away as they were unreliable and kept on falling out, killing the motor.

I’d go for the close to stop circuit type red switch that have a much more tighter clip.

[Jack09]

Originally Posted by Chanchan168

We had the run off toggle switch on our rescue Sibs. Swapped them out right away as they were unreliable and kept on falling out, killing the motor.

I’d go for the close to stop circuit type red switch that have a much more tighter clip.

That's what I'm afraid of.

On closer inspection I can see a void above the switch. Am I right in thinking the clip slides up under the lip so forcing it down when the cord is pulled?

[A1an]

Originally Posted by Chanchan168

We had the run off toggle switch on our rescue Sibs. Swapped them out right away as they were unreliable and kept on falling out, killing the motor.

I’d go for the close to stop circuit type red switch that have a much more tighter clip.

but remember to have a spare kill cord on the boat somewhere and all crew know where it is.

[Chanchan168]

Originally Posted by Jack09

That's what I'm afraid of.

On closer inspection I can see a void above the switch. Am I right in thinking the clip slides up under the lip so forcing it down when the cord is pulled?

Yes but the fittment was so poor, they clip only rests in the run position. They were so unreliable we removed them.

[Chanchan168]

Originally Posted by A1an

but remember to have a spare kill cord on the boat somewhere and all crew know where it is.

We always do. Problem with these was that we transport over land at speed to launch, sometimes in the surf. The vibration from bumps in the road meant these fell out so when we tried to start the boat for a surf launch, it wouldn’t start and would flood the boat and make us potentially beam on.

Defo a safety issue, so we retro fitted close to stop kill switches. Much more firmer.

[GuyC]

https://www.bottomlinemarine.com/pro...ury_3262.shtml

I think it will be one of these.

You put the end of the loop in the slot when the switch is in the off position. Putting the switch in the on position traps the loop. Pulling the lanyard pulls the loop out causing the switch to go into the off position.

Notwithstanding the comments above, it's a pretty common system and ordinarily quite robust.

Is your RIB tiller steered? If so, the comments above are applicable. If your RIB has a console and you steer from there, the usual way is to have a kill switch on the console and then the fork type lanyard with a spring loaded plunger is a common approach. In this case the switch on the outboard would be mainly redundant.

[Fenlander]

>>>Is your RIB tiller steered?

Yep this is the important consideration.... because most Seariders have wheel/remotes/console so you should mod it for a kill switch near the wheel.

If you are tiller steer then fit a more modern switch to the outboard... they were modded from the late 1990s so the cord clip was firmly held and could only come out if the switch moved to the off posn.

If you are going dash/console mounted this is the later Mercury/Mariner type. Apart from being the panel mount version the switch is the later type with the same way of working as the ourboard mount versions... you can see in the image the clip is firmly contained and can only come out when it pulls the toggle down to stop.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273434139213