Using Jerry Cans

[2012Marine]

Codprawn, you might be looking at this (POR15) for sealing your tanks.

http://purchasing.uk-plc.net/website...olisaspx=false

The fuel Transfer hose uses a shreader valve and connects to your normal halfords charge up compressor (you know one of those that has a torch jump leads etc.) The reason most people have bought them is to carry additional fuel on board and be able to transfer to the main tank without the necessity to lift or move the jerry cans, as the hose is 10 feet long and has the normal gun trigger you get at the petrol station. My 'halfords' £39.00 air pump emties the cans in about 90 seconds.
Other people have bought them to refuel jet ski's and the 4 wheel guys for track days. The hand pump also empties in about 1 - 2 mins depending on your action!!
The Septer fast flow spouts are also very good as no glug glug as they have an air return. Unfortunatly quite expensive as I import from US.

At the end of the day horses for courses and all that.

Also if any of my products are bought and are unsuitable I give a 14 days full money back guarantee. Anyway if anyone wants any info just drop me a mail or post on here.

Best

Greg

[codprawn]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Like this stuff?

Petseal

Rumour has it that it was invented for Massey-Tractorson tanks as they leak otherwise.

Just looked it up and some people said it was crap - flaked off and caused more probs.

http://www.flowliner.co.uk/

This is supposed to be much better but it's only a 2pack epoxy which I am sure could be had for less than £20!!!

http://www.leighspaints.co.uk/Products.aspx

Will ask these brilliant people next week - I have a feeling the epoxy aluminium I have on my LR chassis will do the job nicely.

[Nos4r2]

Originally Posted by codprawn

Just looked it up and some people said it was crap - flaked off and caused more probs.

You do have to remember that people are quite dim and expect it to reclaim scrap.

It'd probably help to pickle the inside of the tank first.

[codprawn]

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

You do have to remember that people are quite dim and expect it to reclaim scrap.

It'd probably help to pickle the inside of the tank first.

Good point. I see loads of people selling very expensive rust converters etc - all they are is phosphoric acid - machine mart do it quite cheap I think.

[codprawn]

Originally Posted by 2012Marine

Codprawn, you might be looking at this (POR15) for sealing your tanks.

http://purchasing.uk-plc.net/website...olisaspx=false

The fuel Transfer hose uses a shreader valve and connects to your normal halfords charge up compressor (you know one of those that has a torch jump leads etc.) The reason most people have bought them is to carry additional fuel on board and be able to transfer to the main tank without the necessity to lift or move the jerry cans, as the hose is 10 feet long and has the normal gun trigger you get at the petrol station. My 'halfords' £39.00 air pump emties the cans in about 90 seconds.
Other people have bought them to refuel jet ski's and the 4 wheel guys for track days. The hand pump also empties in about 1 - 2 mins depending on your action!!
The Septer fast flow spouts are also very good as no glug glug as they have an air return. Unfortunatly quite expensive as I import from US.

At the end of the day horses for courses and all that.

Also if any of my products are bought and are unsuitable I give a 14 days full money back guarantee. Anyway if anyone wants any info just drop me a mail or post on here.

Best

Greg

No offence but POR15 is way overpriced - not just with you - everywhere. They take a common industrial product - market it in a fancy way - then charge what they like!!!

The jerry can pumps are def of interest though. How robust is the manual one - it looks a bit flimsy in the pics but no way of telling without using it first.

[prairie tuber]

For the sub 40 pound price that Greg (2012 Marine) is listing for the Scepter MFCs, why would you bother with the expense and hassle of trying to repair aging metal cans which vastly inferior and much less safe?

[codprawn]

Originally Posted by prairie tuber

For the sub 40 pound price that Greg (2012 Marine) is listing for the Scepter MFCs, why would you bother with the expense and hassle of trying to repair aging metal cans which vastly inferior and much less safe?

Because I am truly eco friendly and believe in recycling as much as possible - something I learned from my old Scottish Granny.............

[prairie tuber]

'cause yer cheeeeeeeeeeep How eco friendly are those chemicals used to recoat the jerrys?

[codprawn]

Originally Posted by prairie tuber

'cause yer cheeeeeeeeeeep How eco friendly are those chemicals used to recoat the jerrys?

The cheaper they are the better they are for the environment - of my wallet!!!

[prairie tuber]

[prairie tuber]

Originally Posted by prairie tuber

Why not simply get the additional MFC caps that have the NPT fittings and run a pickup lline inside the MFC to it's bottom, then run a conventional outboard fuel line (with a manual bulb pump) directly to the engine's fuel intake??

It makes no sense whatsoever to be messing about on open water trying to transfer fuel from a jerry to the main tank.

I've received the base adapter kits (caps with 1/4 NPT threaded holes) and have installed the fittings. Here are some pictures;

[prairie tuber]

more pictures...

[mark-f]

Originally Posted by prairie tuber

I've received the base adapter kits (caps with 1/4 NPT threaded holes) and have installed the fittings. Here are some pictures;

So where did you get the scepter MFC lids with NPT threaded holes from?

Looks like a good way to have a back up fuel system as as well as the fuel

Mark

[prairie tuber]

Hi Mark,

I got my adapter base kits from a Canadian Supplier ( The Great Canadian Expedition Company http://www.gcec.info/products.asp?cat=36&pg=2 ), but I'm sure that 2012Marine (http://www.2012marinerestoration.com/) who has posted here can supply with them in the UK with a special RIB.netter discount.

The part # for the Adapter Base Kit is 05381. I paid $ 22.42 CAN for each from my supplier I (would guess it might work out to a bit more in Britain since it is a Canadian manufacturer).

As for the other fittings, I picked them up at a local boat shop & and a department store (Canadian Tire) that handles automotive & marine supplies. You could also probably get all of these brass fittings at a local machine supply shop that deals with hydraulic & pneumatic machine parts. Here is more detail on each of the items;

A) The barbed fuel hose fitting on the underside of the cap shown in the 3rd picture is this;

http://www.seachoice.com/productdeta....asp?pid=84127

or;

http://seasense.com/index.php?page=s...mart&Itemid=26

or;

http://www.tempoproducts.com/product...rts&item_id=20

These companies offer barbs for fuel hose diameters from 1/4", 5/16", 3/8". I'm using a 5/16" inch marine fuel hose for the pickup line going into the MFC.


B) The elbow coming from the top of the cap is;



http://shop.easternmarine.com/index....categoryID=370

or;

http://www.attwoodmarine.com/product...e=&headername=

or;

http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=R024017



C) Screwed into that elbow is a Chrysler/Force fuel coupler for the simple reason that I prefer that style to to the double prong or bayonet style fuel couplers. I believe that both Tohatsu/Nissan and Suzuki use a very similar style of coupler. Of course you can fit whatever style you prefer.

http://seasense.com/index.php?page=s...mart&Itemid=26

or;

http://www.seachoice.com/productdeta...asp?pid=107644

D) At the fuel line is the female counterpart of the preferred style of fuel coupler - in this case, Chrysler/Force.


http://seasense.com/index.php?page=s...mart&Itemid=26

or:

http://www.tempoproducts.com/product...rts&item_id=16


E) In the other hole of the cap is a simple end plug since I can vent the tank by slightly loosening the cap. I'll probably replace this plug with some type of ball valve with a breather valve.


Here is a link to all sorts of brass fittings:

http://www.brassfit.com/

[prairie tuber]

I had earlier mentioned that I wanted to use a closeable vent/breather rather than the straight brass plug that was in the previous pictures. I found this item with a copper breather screen which is perfect. The stem only needs to be lightly finger tightened to get an airtight seal (as shown in the first picture), and unscrewed a few turns to allow the MFC to vent when fuel is being drawn from it (2nd picture).

[Rodan]

I use these - very reasonable:

http://www.roadking.co.uk/products.asp?recnumber=557

[2012Marine]

Originally Posted by 2012Marine

Just a reminder to you all that I sell all the Scepter Cans and spouts, fuel transfer pumps air and hand (Petrol and diesel). Also please input this discount code which will give you all a 7.5% discount should you wish to purchase anything. 4318551658

http://websites.uk-plc.net/2012_Mari...__Transfer.htm

BTW I am also now doing Hypalon and Polyurathane non slip cladding for tubes (not sure if it will be a goer but might prove usefull to some of you. Check it out on the product catagories. (Same discount applies)

http://websites.uk-plc.net/2012_Mari...e_Sheeting.htm



All the best.

Greg

PS John K, I will sort out the trade entry soonest!!!

Guys

The Scepter cans have an internal thread in the neck with tighter threads. The transfer pumps I distribute have a single brass moulded fitting with a 5psi blow off walve ands shreader valve making all the seals vvv good. The nozzle is basically the same as what you get at the petrol station.

Picture enclosed.