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12 October 2016, 09:48
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Make: Northcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki V4 100
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 222
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Wear patches
Finally got the Northcraft out!!
Tubes have previously been replaced and are in great shape! As I intend to use the rib and have an 11 year old daughter that loves to use it as a climbing frame, I'd love to fit wear patches but no idea where to get them? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
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13 October 2016, 13:28
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Chorley, Lancs
Length: no boat
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 116
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Hi Nordburg 2001
We can supply hypalon wear patches or various non slip options precut to size and pre sanded.
I can be contacted by pm or via the phone or email if you follow the link to our website
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14 October 2016, 17:04
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Wear patches are a good idea,and will prolong the life of the Tubes for sure.
I'd get a pro to fit them though,as it's not as straight forward as you'd imagine...and can spoil all you're good work if you get it wrong.
Your Northcraft looks good...And from what I've seen in the past they're well built! All the Best with Her!
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14 October 2016, 19:22
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: teesside
Boat name: magic
Make: humber 5.5
Length: 5m +
Engine: mariner 115
MMSI: 232012453
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,557
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I'm thinking of some wear patches for my osprey .what do you mean by its not as straight forward as you would imagen. I was going to deflate to just enough pressure to keep the tubes shape and fit them
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15 October 2016, 10:41
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beerbelly
I'm thinking of some wear patches for my osprey .what do you mean by its not as straight forward as you would imagen. I was going to deflate to just enough pressure to keep the tubes shape and fit them
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The placement has only got to be millimetres out to totally spoil the whole look of the Boat for One!..and on a elliptical and possibly tapered Tube surface is not easy to line up and space to get 100% right.
Next... when they've (or you) marked it out they (or you) totally remove the top layer of Hyperlon...(something again you don't want to over cook!) with an abrasive pad (right to the EDGE of the wear patch to ensure good adhesion!)...No going back then!
They (the pros) will not only have all the tools like rollers and clean up chemicals ect,but also ensure the right curing times for both the glue on the Patches...often applied long (many hours) before the glue to the Tubes..and the right temperature and humidity ,which can be crucial!...to make make sure it all goes the way it should!...and give the longevity to the job under all the use/abuse and flexing it will most certainly get in the years to come.
Fkcing up the application of wear patches in the grand scheme of things IMO is simply not worth the risk for the money it costs....but that's just me
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A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
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15 October 2016, 11:15
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#6
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Are your tubes really elliptical?
Tapered tubes would certainly be harder, although I suspect there is less call for wear patches on such boats, and even where there is it tends to be aft the beam where there is less/no taper.
That said gluing hypalon is essential a right first time job and getting it smooth and bubble free with a big sticky patch is not where I'd want to start...
I guess the criticality of humidity and temperature might be reduced for a wear patch that doesn't actually hold pressure or any real force, but at this time of year I would suggest you want a clean, warm, dry workshop to do it in, and by the time you've bought solvent, glue, clean rags, scourers, brushes, too much fabric etc you will be well on the way to the cost of getting a pro to do it. Of course if you have a long tow and ferry fares to contend with etc then the whole balance changes which is something easily forgotten by those in the rib heartlands!
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15 October 2016, 11:35
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
Are your tubes really elliptical?
Tapered tubes would certainly be harder, although I suspect there is less call for wear patches on such boats, and even where there is it tends to be aft the beam where there is less/no taper.
That said gluing hypalon is essential a right first time job and getting it smooth and bubble free with a big sticky patch is not where I'd want to start...
I guess the criticality of humidity and temperature might be reduced for a wear patch that doesn't actually hold pressure or any real force, but at this time of year I would suggest you want a clean, warm, dry workshop to do it in, and by the time you've bought solvent, glue, clean rags, scourers, brushes, too much fabric etc you will be well on the way to the cost of getting a pro to do it. Of course if you have a long tow and ferry fares to contend with etc then the whole balance changes which is something easily forgotten by those in the rib heartlands!
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The long tow/travel point is one I missed....but surly it's a matter of potentially at least,"spoiling the Boat the Hapeth of Tar" !?
The patches may not in themselves hold air...but with temperature changes and consequent increase and decrease of volume..not to mention people sitting/standing on and the pressures and flexing produced underway in an inflatable the join/mating of the two must be pretty nigh perfect.
I didn't say it couldn't be done,just that's there's more to it than you may think...and for me it's not worth the risk of messing up a multi thousand pound Boat.
As to elliptical...surly with a scientific background...you'll know Nothing man made is perfectly round!...ie. Spherical.)!
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A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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15 October 2016, 11:51
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#8
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
The long tow/travel point is one I missed....but surly it's a matter of potentially at least,"spoiling the Boat the Hapeth of Tar" !?
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Depends how far. If you live near a tube maker easy to drop off for a few days. If you live on a remote scottish island two round trips (one drop off, one collect) with hotels, ferries, petrol, could cost you far more than the patches!
At the end of the day it's a northcraft not a goldfish so it's function over form! However I do agree if there is a local option it will be far easier.
Quote:
but with temperature changes and consequent increase and decrease of volume..
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tubes don't really change in volume with temp, that's why they go hard (and eventually burst).
Quote:
As to elliptical...surly with a scientific background...you'll know Nothing man made is perfectly round!...ie. Spherical.)!
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Your tubes definitely aren't spherical. They may not even by perfectly cylindrical, but that doesn't mean they are elliptical either!
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15 October 2016, 11:56
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#9
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Oh, and it looks like the OP is in Norn Iron. Certainly expensive to bring to the big Island. there is someone does independent tube work on that side of the Irish Sea, I can't remember where exactly and that may mean the current Euro rate is eye-watering!
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15 October 2016, 12:12
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Make: Northcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki V4 100
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 222
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Yes, up top of Norn Iron. Around 20 miles across from Portpatrick! Not sure I know any specialists, and you are correct, if I had to drive down the south of the island with the Euro the way it is now would cost me a fortune!!
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15 October 2016, 12:22
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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"tubes don't really change in volume with temp,that's why they go hard (and eventually burst)."
Splitting Hairs there eh Pol?...
The Tubes themselves may not...but I'm sure you'll agree the AIR IN them does expand and decrease in volume with temperature fluxuation ( something all inflatable owners recognise) and does indeed therefore expand and contract the surface..Hyperlon...and then effect the Tube pressure,which in turn may cause stress on any surface/interface not joined to them properly.
The answer was to Beer Belly by the way..who was talking about his Osprey...although I'm sure the OP thinks just as much of his North craft!.
As to the exchange rate...yep it is a bit low at the mo,but I'm sure it's only temporary,and will be well worth it in the end!
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A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
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15 October 2016, 13:13
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#12
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
"tubes don't really change in volume with temp,that's why they go hard (and eventually burst)."
Splitting Hairs there eh Pol?...
The Tubes themselves may not...but I'm sure you'll agree the AIR IN them does expand and decrease in volume with temperature fluxuation ( something all inflatable owners recognise) and does indeed therefore expand and contract the surface..Hyperlon...and then effect the Tube pressure,
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Not really. High school science. The air can't expand and so increases in pressure.
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15 October 2016, 14:11
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
Not really. High school science. The air can't expand and so increases in pressure.
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...YES!...On the Tubes which expand! ....and change Shape (enlarge and decrease) as a consequence!
..and there's the Clue to why we fit pressure release valves!
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A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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15 October 2016, 14:15
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Make: Northcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki V4 100
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 222
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On that note, I noticed that I don't seem to have prv's on my Tubes, are these easily fitted or another specialist job?
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Sometimes a little knowledge is worse than none at all....
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15 October 2016, 14:43
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#15
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
...YES!...On the Tubes which expand! ....and change Shape (enlarge and decrease) as a consequence!
..and there's the Clue to why we fit pressure release valves!
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No if the tubes stretched (like a balloon) you wouldn't need PRVs unless something very extreme was happening, it's because hypalon and pvc don't stretch significantly that the pressure increases. The Tubes only change shape, from "cylindrical" to "limp sack" if you have a leak, otherwise the diameter remains the same. Hence there is little stress on the tube-wear patch joint, and it's gluing is not as critical as others (in case you've forgotten the point of the discussion)!
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15 October 2016, 14:53
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#16
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nordburg2001
On that note, I noticed that I don't seem to have prv's on my Tubes, are these easily fitted or another specialist job?
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The aesthetics are probably easier to manage, but they need to be air tight, and probably more importantly you have to do the scary part of taking a knife to your otherwise perfect tubes.
If you keep the inside of the tubes dry, the pressure change will be much lower than with moisture condensing/evaporating. In NI you might not get enough pressure / temp fluctuation to worry unless you have black tubes, or leave your boat in blaring sunshine (afloat is not so much of an issue as the water cools the content). If you are worried then a bit of discipline to let air out when sun is forecast will keep you right.
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15 October 2016, 14:56
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Make: Northcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki V4 100
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 222
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How about just filling the tubes with nitrogen? Would this not eliminate the need for prv's?
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15 October 2016, 15:03
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wild West
Boat name: No Boat
Make: No Boat
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5,306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
No if the tubes stretched (like a balloon) you wouldn't need PRVs unless something very extreme was happening, it's because hypalon and pvc don't stretch significantly that the pressure increases. The Tubes only change shape, from "cylindrical" to "limp sack" if you have a leak, otherwise the diameter remains the same. Hence there is little stress on the tube-wear patch joint, and it's gluing is not as critical as others (in case you've forgotten the point of the discussion)!
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No I don't agree..again I think it's a case of theory and practise P.
Sometimes in cold conditions (and I do go out in the winter)
The tubes need a good bit of air to get them up to pressure.(just one example)..it's the difrence and stress/movement caused by the Tubes altering shape that I referred too,...That's before you start letting Tubes down for transport or storage ect like some do.
Hence you need a really good seal when glueing to stop any problems arising...I have 10 wear thick Treadmaster wear patches fitted properly in the first place 4 years Boating in ALL conditions and no problems.
...I've seen plenty that have.
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A clever Man learns by his mistakes..
A Wise Man learns by other people's!
The Road to HELL ..is Paved with "Good inventions!"
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15 October 2016, 17:14
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Ashton-under-Lyne Lancs
Boat name: IMOGEN
Make: Air-Craft 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki df70a
MMSI: 235087492
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 7,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximus
...YES!...On the Tubes which expand! ....and change Shape (enlarge and decrease) as a consequence!
..and there's the Clue to why we fit pressure release valves!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly
No if the tubes stretched (like a balloon) you wouldn't need PRVs unless something very extreme was happening, it's because hypalon and pvc don't stretch significantly that the pressure increases. The Tubes only change shape, from "cylindrical" to "limp sack" if you have a leak, otherwise the diameter remains the same. Hence there is little stress on the tube-wear patch joint, and it's gluing is not as critical as others (in case you've forgotten the point of the discussion)!
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Member of S.A.B.S. (Lancashire Division)
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15 October 2016, 17:32
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Glasgow
Boat name: Cesa
Length: no boat
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerny
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Indeed ! That's why I've just paid many pennies to have patches and cleats fitted by a 'pro'. I'd hate to argue with myself if I was doing it 😃
Ps. Pic shows them BEFORE they were glued down 😂
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