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11 April 2013, 11:01
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Boat name: Red Dog
Make: Porters Renegade
Length: 6m +
Engine: 150 HP Yamaha
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 610
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What the hell caused this??
Hi Guys
Just removed the engine mounting bolts from the transom preparing to re flow coat everything and one of the bolts looked like this. Looks like someone has been chewing on it.
The other three are in perfect condition and the transom is totally dry, which is good news.
Some kind of electrolysis?
Anyone seen anything like this before?
Andy
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11 April 2013, 11:20
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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It didn't have coppaslip on it did it?
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11 April 2013, 11:42
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Ardfern
Boat name: Moon Raker
Make: Humber Destroyer
Length: 5m +
Engine: Honda BF 90 D
MMSI: 235035994
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wightdiver
Hi Guys
Just removed the engine mounting bolts from the transom preparing to re flow coat everything and one of the bolts looked like this. Looks like someone has been chewing on it.
The other three are in perfect condition and the transom is totally dry, which is good news.
Some kind of electrolysis?
Anyone seen anything like this before?
Andy
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It will be electrolysis, because I think that's how all corrosion works. Stainless steel relies on an impervious layer of oxide to counter corrosion. The oxide layer is only impervious if it forms on a very smooth surface, which is why stainless steel fittings are highly polished. Maybe that bolt was not polished enough, or was scratched or filed, or something?
If the oxide layer fails, or cannot be replaced, then stainless steel will rust very quickly because of electrolysis between the various alloys that make it up. Stainless steel propeller shafts enclosed in a shaft tube suffer this, and it's one reason why boats are not made of SS.
Though the transom holes are dry, if any dampness got between the sealant and the bolt, the oxide coat could be breached and with no air to renew the oxide layer, corrosion will set in and accelerate.
I think that may be a possible cause, but I'm dredging the depths of my head for old knowledge.
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11 April 2013, 11:58
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Boat name: Red Dog
Make: Porters Renegade
Length: 6m +
Engine: 150 HP Yamaha
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 610
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Guys
Thanks for your replys. As far as I know and can see from the bolts and holes there was no copperslip on them but as I did not do the origional install I cannot be totally sure.
The explenation sounds right to me, looks like I will have to buy another bolt which was not in the budget!! Damn.
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11 April 2013, 12:04
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Somerset
Boat name: Nimrod
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Suzuki 200
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 39
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Yes, it looks like crevice corrosion. The oxygen is depleted so the passive layer that makes it stainless isn't renewed, resulting in the pitting. It's even worse if there is any chlorine around from bleach etc.
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11 April 2013, 15:01
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Boat name: Red Dog
Make: Porters Renegade
Length: 6m +
Engine: 150 HP Yamaha
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timw44
Yes, it looks like crevice corrosion. The oxygen is depleted so the passive layer that makes it stainless isn't renewed, resulting in the pitting. It's even worse if there is any chlorine around from bleach etc.
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Well you learn something new every day!!
Thanks Tim
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11 April 2013, 15:35
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - N Ireland
Town: Rostrevor
Boat name: Ricochet
Make: Redbay
Length: 7m +
Engine: Twin F115 Yams
MMSI: 235083269
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timw44
Yes, it looks like crevice corrosion. The oxygen is depleted so the passive layer that makes it stainless isn't renewed, resulting in the pitting. It's even worse if there is any chlorine around from bleach etc.
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100%
Topic Category: Category: Crevice Corrosion
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11 April 2013, 16:14
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Boat name: Red Dog
Make: Porters Renegade
Length: 6m +
Engine: 150 HP Yamaha
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ribochet
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Interesting reading.
Is this something I/we should be worried about?
Only one of the four bolts were effected and as this is a new project to me I have no idea how long they had been in there. If all 4 were in the same condition I could imagine the engine taking a dive off the back in rough conditions.
Is there some form of advised inspection regime? My other RIB has had the engine on the back for at least 6 years, I am getting a bit worried.
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11 April 2013, 16:36
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#9
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset & Hants
Boat name: Streaker/Orange
Make: Avon/Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50Yam/25 Mariner
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,551
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Surely the surface not renewing would only be an issue if the surface needs to be renewed.......meaning in this case the bolt may have been been 'moving' and waring away the original surface ?
If the bolt doesn't move (at all) the surface wont be eroded, meaning it wont need to renew itself (if there is oxygen or not wont matter) ....
Make sense ?
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11 April 2013, 16:49
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#10
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM
Surely the surface not renewing would only be an issue if the surface needs to be renewed.......meaning in this case the bolt may have been been 'moving' and waring away the original surface ?
If the bolt doesn't move (at all) the surface wont be eroded, meaning it wont need to renew itself (if there is oxygen or not wont matter) ....
Make sense ?
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Outboard mounting bolts always move fractionally. There's no way to stop it happening as drill holes aren't that accurate and they're a dissimilar material to what they're bolted to. If it was a stainless transom,outboard saddle and an interference fit all the way through both you might stand a chance but that situation's never going to happen.
Hence using Sika 291 to seal them-it flexes as well as adheres and keeps the seal.
A tiny amount of grease on the bolt (EG, not degreasing it before fitting) could be enough to make the sealant part from it over time.
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11 April 2013, 16:57
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#11
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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The pitting is likely caused by anaerobic bacteria. Process follows:
Bolt was not sealed adequately. Sea water gets in, but is trapped. The aerobic bacteria in the water consumes the oxygen, and dies (as there is no more oxygen to support it.) Anaerobic bacteria begins feeding on the dead aerobic stuff, producing sulfuric acid as a by-product. Acid eats the steel.
At least that's how I understood the crevice corrosion risk to submerged (or frequently wetted stainless fasteners in marine environments.
jky
jky
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11 April 2013, 17:59
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Dorset & Hants
Boat name: Streaker/Orange
Make: Avon/Ribcraft
Length: 4m +
Engine: 50Yam/25 Mariner
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 5,551
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wightdiver
Guys
Thanks for your replys. As far as I know and can see from the bolts and holes there was no copperslip on them but as I did not do the origional install I cannot be totally sure.
The explenation sounds right to me, looks like I will have to buy another bolt which was not in the budget!! Damn.
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How long is it?...I have a new unused one that looks about the same length you can have.
Just looked..the one I have is a 6cm shoulder and just over 8cm thread...
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11 April 2013, 19:14
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Brighton
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 222
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Galvanic action.....stainless bolts, aluminium casting, sea water.
"Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially to another when both metals are in electrical contact and immersed in an electrolyte. The same galvanic reaction is exploited in primary batteries to generate a voltage."
The best solution would be to electrically connect the SS bolts and the engine using a SS strap between the head of the bolt and some high up part of the OBM....but its a bit of an overkill....just replace the bolts.
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11 April 2013, 19:19
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Fareham
Boat name: Red Dog
Make: Porters Renegade
Length: 6m +
Engine: 150 HP Yamaha
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 610
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM
How long is it?...I have a new unused one that looks about the same length you can have.
Just looked..the one I have is a 6cm shoulder and just over 8cm thread...
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Peter
Thanks for the kind offer, I think I will buy 4 new bolts when I get around to mounting the engine.
Andy
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11 April 2013, 21:18
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#15
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Member
Country: UK - Channel Islands
Town: jersey
Boat name: Martini II
Make: Arctic 28/FC470
Length: 8m +
Engine: twin 225Opti/50hp 2t
MMSI: 235067688
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Will75
Galvanic action.....stainless bolts, aluminium casting, sea water.
"Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially to another when both metals are in electrical contact and immersed in an electrolyte. The same galvanic reaction is exploited in primary batteries to generate a voltage."
The best solution would be to electrically connect the SS bolts and the engine using a SS strap between the head of the bolt and some high up part of the OBM....but its a bit of an overkill....just replace the bolts.
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If it was galvanic corrosion then the aluminium would erode, not the stainless. Stainless is noble to aluminium.
This is typical crevice corrosion in a situation where all the classic ingredients are present. The oversize holes in the saddle with a washer over the top provide the perfect spot for seawater to get in and sit there stagnating.
All you can do, as has been said, pump plenty of 291 in there to keep the water out. A good bit on the transom round the bolt before the outboard goes up against the transom, then fill the hole in the saddle round the bolt.
Most outboards are drilled for 1/2" bolts and us Brits usually end up using 12mm so there's a bit of space round the bolt which I've never liked much. But that's a whole different subject that's already been done on here!
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