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20 October 2012, 10:10
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 86
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Winterising a RIB
Hello,
We are coming to the last trip out on our rib of it's first season after owning a smaller tender for a few years before. It is a new 4.2m rib with an Evinrude 50hp engine. I was wondering what else I need to do to the rib to make it as easy as possible to get it going next season. All I know what to do is how to winterise the engine from the manual but that seems pretty basic, any responses would be great
Charlie
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20 October 2012, 10:30
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#2
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Northampton
Make: RibTec
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outbaord mariner 75
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 506
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spray lectrics with wd40. grease up a little the movings parts on trailer/engine where applicable.
spray trailer all over with wd40.
removed battery and put in garage.
pop cover on rib and uncover next season.
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20 October 2012, 16:57
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#3
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Fuel stabilized and run into the fuel system? Anti-freeze run through motor? LU down so it drains? Drain plug out and bow up so the boat drains?
Kind of depends on if you're in a freezing area (above, 2 and 3.)
Jacking the trailer up and getting the tires off the ground will help with tire longevity.
jky
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20 October 2012, 17:49
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#4
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Member
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Wick Highland
Boat name: Dirty Cow
Make: Osprey Viper 525
Length: 5m +
Engine: Mariner 90HP
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 39
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Duck oil is better than WD40 which tends to dry up.
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20 October 2012, 18:51
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bursledon
Boat name: Ninky nonk
Make: Ribeye 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 24
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Petrol tank
Hi guys I'm in a similar situation first outboard does the fuel tank need to be full ? And when you run anti freeze through what's the best antifreze to use and how much ?
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20 October 2012, 20:39
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Northampton
Make: RibTec
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outbaord mariner 75
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 506
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Why run anti freeze in your obm?
it all runs out the leg water intakes.???
I have never ran anti freeze in and never neeeded to add any fuel stabaliser.
the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does.
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20 October 2012, 21:24
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#7
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: yorkshire
Boat name: little vicky
Make: avon ex RNLI
Length: 3m +
Engine: tohatsu
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jezza2011
Why run anti freeze in your obm?
it all runs out the leg water intakes.???
I have never ran anti freeze in and never neeeded to add any fuel stabaliser.
the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does.
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Some people run antifreeze through as an anti corrosion inhibiter as much as anything else .
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21 October 2012, 02:43
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#8
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Oakland CA
Length: 3m +
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jezza2011
Why run anti freeze in your obm?
it all runs out the leg water intakes.???
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Do you really think *all* the water drains from the motor? If you live in a hard freeze climate, any residual water in the motor or the leg can freeze and cause expansion cracking of whatever it's contained in. Anti-freeze prevents that problem (well, mostly. You still want to keep the leg down to prevent rainwater from pooling in the exhaust hub and freezing.)
Quote:
the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does.
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Up until it doesn't, anyway. Winterization is proactive prevention of problems. If you don't do it and don't have problems, great. If you do and don't have problems, still great. If you don't and end up with problems, well...
jky
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21 October 2012, 08:31
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 86
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Thanks you all for all the replies,
Firstly I must agree that it seems logical that all the anti freeze will just run out of the motor instantly, secondly the boat and engine will be in garage under cover so I think I will leave the antifreeze and also fuel stabiliser. Would it be better to run as much fuel out of the tank as possible or have a full tank??
Thanks, charlie
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21 October 2012, 08:53
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#10
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Southampton
Boat name: DynaMoHumm/ SRV/deja
Make: Avon8.4, 5.4 & 4.777
Length: 8m +
Engine: Cat3126 Yam 90 &70
MMSI: 42
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,562
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wntrization
Quote:
Originally Posted by jezza2011
Why run anti freeze in your obm?
it all runs out the leg water intakes.???
I have never ran anti freeze in and never neeeded to add any fuel stabaliser.
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Inboard or outboard tanks?
[ QUOTE=jezza2011;494997the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does. [/QUOTE]
I take it the fuel was also 2.5 years old, I'm staggered that it was not stale and actually sparked up.
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Soul possession, Got me in a trance
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21 October 2012, 10:43
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#11
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Northampton
Make: RibTec
Length: 5m +
Engine: Outbaord mariner 75
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 506
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[QUOTE=jezza2011;494997the longest my boat was out of the water for was 2.5 years, no anti freeze no fuel stabaliser.. and it started first time still does.[/QUOTE]
2x quicksilver tanks under the console with about 1/2 to 1/3 of a tank.
I take it the fuel was also 2.5 years old, I'm staggered that it was not stale and actually sparked up.[/QUOTE]
Well try storing some fuel and pop a match to it. its going to go boom.
I totally agree in countries that have high ethanol content to their fuels then yep you need something to stop the ethanol evaportaing as its more volatile than petrol but here its not totally nessesary. but thats just my opinion.
Having had experience of old classic cars sitting for months we never put anything in the tanks.
just made sure the batteries were good to go and turn the key.
like the obm never had any issues.
i do admit 2.5 years was a very very long to time to leave the fuel but it was as it turns out good. Poured the fuel into 1 tank and went round Howth ROI.
but again this was a 1991 3 carb 75hp mariner marathon mota so strong as old boots.
a modern efi engine my not be too happy.
as for anti freeze well there is nothing the manual for that and the dealers never as far as I know do that to the engines.
:-)
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22 October 2012, 22:33
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#12
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bursledon
Boat name: Ninky nonk
Make: Ribeye 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 24
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Antifreze
Hi guys can anyone tell me how much anti freeze a yamaha 115 will need roughly ? Is it just standard car anti freeze?
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23 October 2012, 08:31
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#13
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: southampton
Boat name: hydradrive
Make: yamaha
Length: no boat
Engine: sterndrives
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajm81
Hi guys can anyone tell me how much anti freeze a yamaha 115 will need roughly ? Is it just standard car anti freeze?
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The outboard will drain down so need for anti freeze, but if a matter if course 5 litres will be enough to do a 50/50 mix of water. Yes normal car stuff
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23 October 2012, 09:04
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#14
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,165
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In 20+ years of owning boats I've never run antifreeze through for winter storage, & we've had -15C up here in the frozen north. If it's an Etec, it will self winterise, just follow the instructions in the owners manual. Wash the powerhead with a low pressure hose & let the water run down inside the cowls to flush out the salt. I always add Evinrude 2+4 conditioner to the tanks & fill them to the brim for winter. Put the battery (ies) on a good charger (eg Cetek) & leave them on float through the winter. Make sure the trailer is WELL rinsed, including the hitch, brake drums & inside the box sections if you can get to them. Check the tyre pressures, if poss block up the trailer on axle stands or wooden blocks to take the weight off the tyres. Light the fire, pour a dram, get the dog in & settle down for the winter. Plan next years trips & spend the next few months talking bollix on Ribnet.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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23 October 2012, 09:09
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#15
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Member
Country: Other
Town: MALTA
Length: 6m +
Engine: Mercury 115 EFI 4S
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 68
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[QUOTE=jezza2011;494884]spray lectrics with wd40.[QUOTE]
I've always been told not to spray WD40 on Electrics especially on the connectors and rubber boots found on the wiring within the engine, because it eats away at it.
Can anyone confirm? Is there some alternative or something better than one can use?
I had once been advised that if I did spray engine with WD40 I should wait a bit and then use an air compressor to blow off excess, especially on the rubber boots/connectors?
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23 October 2012, 09:19
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#16
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: South Yorks
Boat name: Black Pig
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: DF140a
MMSI: 235111389
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 12,165
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[QUOTE=npm108;495453][QUOTE=jezza2011;494884]spray lectrics with wd40.
Quote:
I've always been told not to spray WD40 on Electrics especially on the connectors and rubber boots found on the wiring within the engine, because it eats away at it.
Can anyone confirm? Is there some alternative or something better than one can use?
I had once been advised that if I did spray engine with WD40 I should wait a bit and then use an air compressor to blow off excess, especially on the rubber boots/connectors?
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Correct WD40 (which is glorified paraffin) will eventually turn all the rubbery bits to snot. I use Corroguard & dry silicone spray.
__________________
Rule#2: Never argue with an idiot. He'll drag you down to his level & then beat you with experience.
Rule#3: Tha' can't educate pork.
Rule#4: Don't feed the troll
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23 October 2012, 19:47
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#17
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wakefield
Boat name: Bouncer
Make: Redbay Stormforce
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x Honda 100 Hp
MMSI: 235025718
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,177
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WD40 is a big NO NO paraffin and water mix get this its the dogs dangles http://www.acf-50.co.uk/corrblock.htm
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23 October 2012, 19:52
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#18
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bristol
Make: Ribcraft
Length: 5m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4,299
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totally right. do not use WD40 for this as will expand rubbers n shit, I use quicksilver corrosion guard or Wurth 2040 spray
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23 October 2012, 20:02
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#19
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Wakefield
Boat name: Bouncer
Make: Redbay Stormforce
Length: 6m +
Engine: 2x Honda 100 Hp
MMSI: 235025718
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick
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Or if you want to splash the cash how about a outdoor Coon (and I am not being racist ) that is what it's called I saw one today one of my customers has his Ferrari in one keeps the electrics dry.
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23 October 2012, 20:51
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#20
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Bursledon
Boat name: Ninky nonk
Make: Ribeye 600
Length: 6m +
Engine: Yamaha
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 24
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Fuel tank
When I had a hard boat before the enlightenment there was mixed vies on whether the tank should be full or empty due to condensation building in the tank what do you guys do ? I must say the costs with an outboard are far less than lay up and servicing of my previous inboard engine : )
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