Wood primer/sealer

martini · 22 March 2008, 20:30

Before I put my new deck down on the Arctic I want to paint all the bits of timber and ply that are in the hull. I'm looking for some kind of sealer or primer that will protect the wood really well as once the deck is down, I won't be seeing it again and I want to know that it's not all rotting away down there!

I'm really not an expert with wood, we've had a love/hate relationship since we first met, any ideas people?

jwalker · 22 March 2008, 20:45

Resin.

Pete7 · 23 March 2008, 00:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

Resin.

Agree with JW, but its temperature sensitive so check first. Your photo of the hull looks familar.

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...acific+console

I replaced some of the wooden supports under the deck with Teak which doesn't need treating and the ply was coated with polyester resin on the underside and GRP on the top. Worked well. Halmatic used Teak faced ply btw.

Pete

ian parkes · 23 March 2008, 01:08

I would have thought it would pay to treat first with a clear overpaintable timber preserver , same as you would exterior timber and joinery .

Its fungal attack from damp conditions that causes timber to rot and a preservative soaked into the wood helps to prevent that fungal attack.

Just make sure its made for overpainting as some contain a wax to waterproof exterior timber .

I use Cuprinol Trade Low odour clear wood preserver on all the windows and doors etc i make , it doesn't just evaporate off the surface like some cheaper brands and takes a few days to dry which means its soaking well into the wood . The wood then takes paint stain or varnish etc very well . I usually spray it on with a simple hand sprayer bottle like most garden centres sell .

Probably best to cover up the tubes etc .

martini · 23 March 2008, 11:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete7

I replaced some of the wooden supports under the deck with Teak which doesn't need treating and the ply was coated with polyester resin on the underside and GRP on the top. Worked well. Halmatic used Teak faced ply btw.

Thanks Pete, I read your Pacific thread with interest some time ago, very useful! I didn't realize the ply was teak faced, did you replace your deck with this or standard marine ply? The joinery workshop next door to me say that teak is almost impossible to get these days.

All the strips of 12mm that sit on top of the stringers seem dry and in good nick, I just thought I would give them another coat of that black stuff whatever it is.

The plan for the deck is basically as you suggest, coat of resin on the underside and GRP on top with a non slip flowcoat.

iandl · 23 March 2008, 12:55

I used G4 see here http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.u...e725373124e49b

i used it on my plywood seats before i sent them for upholstery ....good stuff

cheers

I

Pete7 · 23 March 2008, 16:26

I just used a sheet of 9mm marine ply. However it did have 2 or 3 layers of GRP then flow coat on top. That G4 stuff might be a good idea though. Some of my Teak spacers were past there best hence the need to replace them.

Pete

Dirk Diggler · 23 March 2008, 16:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

Resin.

Nah, not if you want it to be waterproof.

jwalker · 23 March 2008, 17:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler

Nah, not if you want it to be waterproof.

Are you going to suggest that laminating resin isn't water resistant but gel coat is?

Dirk Diggler · 23 March 2008, 18:01

Erm, don't seem to remember mentioning anything about gelcoat.

OceanEco · 23 March 2008, 18:51

Epoxy Resin

jwalker · 23 March 2008, 19:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler

Erm, don't seem to remember mentioning anything about gelcoat.

Erm, I don't seem to remember suggesting you did.

BassBoy · 23 March 2008, 22:18

I'm ignorant about curing any rot, but I would use epoxy for sure to seal and not polyester. Check out West systems.
You really need to get it as dry as possible before you seal in any moisture. If you can gey some heat and a dehumid under a tent for a few days, probably well worth the effort.

jwalker · 24 March 2008, 16:47

Martini, I've just had a wee thought, since you were talking about teak. If you have in the boat or are going to use real teak, as in oily Burma teak, you may find that it is difficult to get proper adhesion to it unless it's thoroughly degreased and I seem to remember that the oil inhibits the curing of polyester resin if it's a thin layer.
Of course, you may already know this, in which case ignore me.

martini · 24 March 2008, 16:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

Martini, I've just had a wee thought, since you were talking about teak. If you have in the boat or are going to use real teak, as in oily Burma teak, you may find that it is difficult to get proper adhesion to it unless it's thoroughly degreased and I seem to remember that the oil inhibits the curing of polyester resin if it's a thin layer.
Of course, you may already know this, in which case ignore me.

jwalker, I haven't the first clue about wood so I won't ignore you! After talking to the joiners next door to me I do know that teak is almost impossible to get hold of these days. But if the wood is sheathed in resin or GRP I think using teak or teak faced wouldn't be necessary anyway.

Limey Linda · 24 March 2008, 17:12

A good alternative to teak, that you can treat would be straight grained white oak or birch. I use the oak. High tensile strength and you don't have to worry about finishing the edges as you do with marine ply.

iandl · 24 March 2008, 17:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

Martini, I've just had a wee thought, since you were talking about teak. If you have in the boat or are going to use real teak, as in oily Burma teak, you may find that it is difficult to get proper adhesion to it unless it's thoroughly degreased and I seem to remember that the oil inhibits the curing of polyester resin if it's a thin layer.
Of course, you may already know this, in which case ignore me.

teak has a natural inbuilt oil, hence its marine usage...its also a bear on machine tool blades..........clean with acetone before gluing.

Teak is readily available if you know where to look ...it is one of the most expensive timbers though and most of your usual suppliers wont stock due to its price, last time i looked it was around £40 square ft O/S (offsaw)....Oak is around £12
some railway sleepers are teak and can get mixed in with oak ....a lot of furniture makers substitute it with Iroko .....which causes me to itch badly......for gluing teak etc they recommend gorilla glue which is polyurethene hence the need for cleaning with acetone first

I

ian parkes · 24 March 2008, 21:23

You will get teak here ,www.atkinsandcripps.co.uk they have lots of branches and outlets.

the depot I use near to Plymouth sells lots of teak to marine projects / princess yatchs use it . Its expensive but for the amount you probably need its not going to break the bank .

Iroko is the nearest sunstitute .

From my experience PU glue isn't much use at all especially on oily woods like teak and iroko or even oak.

If anyone is in need timber machined to size I can help

Pete7 · 24 March 2008, 21:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by martini

But if the wood is sheathed in resin or GRP I think using teak or teak faced wouldn't be necessary anyway.

Agreed, the only reason I used it was because there is a chandlers in Gosport that sells offcuts cheaply. If your looking for packing pieces then strips of 12mm marine ply offcut would do just as well with a good coat of epoxy. Mine had so many holes in from all those brass screws there was no way to re-use them.

Pete