[Yikes] Transom Separating From Pontoons!

[sentry]

Hi Guys,

I recently purchased my first boat - 2000 Zodiac Cadet 400 w/ old Johnson 35hp. I love it and am super pumped about owning my first RIB!

BUT, its gonna need a little TLC.

Here's the issue: the rubber that connects the transom with the pontoon has begun to peel. What am I looking for? Some honest opinions. I want to do the job myself. Why? I took it to local Zodiac repair shop and was quoted a minimum of $300. This seems a little steep for a critical yet straightforward glue job. I have read up the exact procedure and am thinking of taking a Sunday with a friend to do the job well. I am not a mechanic/repairman but am relatively quick off the draw.

Looking for any advice here: experience/recommendation. Thanks in advance!

[Nasher]

You should be able to do it yourself with some good quality two part glue.

The key as always is in the preparation, and I'd suggest you spend a bit of time reading the many posts about gluing technique you'll find on here if you use the search function.

I'm sure with a bit of research and common sense you'll have a go and get the rewarding experiance of having repaired it yourself.

Good luck

Nasher.

[9D280]

Welcome!

Yep, you want to get that fixed. I'll second what Nasher said, but what you could also do to reinforse it is if you can find a big enough bit of Hypalon (or PVC- i'm not sure what your boat is) you could stick a reinforcing "web" over the top corner. There's a pic in the "best wake shot" thread that shows how mine has been done. (or on the starboard side, the one I need to replace soon!)

[sentry]

Thanks for the input! I'm going to make this my weekend project. The research is done so I feel well prepared.

My only going concearn going forward is how inflated the tubes should be when I do the job. Whatever keeps the connection in place the best to allow the glue to dry properly (so slightly delfated so the material is malleable is what I'm thinking).

[jyasaki]

Originally Posted by sentry

My only going concearn going forward is how inflated the tubes should be when I do the job. Whatever keeps the connection in place the best to allow the glue to dry properly (so slightly delfated so the material is malleable is what I'm thinking).

Tubes should be pumped up to normal operating pressure when joining the pieces to ensure you get the alignment right. Once joined, deflate so you can burnish the joint together (use a small roller or a tire patch "stitcher" and work against a solid surface.)

If you do the job right, you won't get any movement in the joint once the initial contact is made (the glue is a crazy-strong contact cement.)

Luck;

jky

[sentry]

After searching a couple days, I found a shop here in Toronto that supplies MEK & Zodiac Glue (Inland Inflatables). I worked till 1am; after 3 days now the bond feels solid. Hoping to put her on the water tomorrow + pics to follow.

Thanks for the tips all!

[ram398]

Originally Posted by sentry

Hi Guys,

I recently purchased my first boat - 2000 Zodiac Cadet 400 w/ old Johnson 35hp. I love it and am super pumped about owning my first RIB!

BUT, its gonna need a little TLC.

Here's the issue: the rubber that connects the transom with the pontoon has begun to peel. What am I looking for? Some honest opinions. I want to do the job myself. Why? I took it to local Zodiac repair shop and was quoted a minimum of $300. This seems a little steep for a critical yet straightforward glue job. I have read up the exact procedure and am thinking of taking a Sunday with a friend to do the job well. I am not a mechanic/repairman but am relatively quick off the draw.

Looking for any advice here: experience/recommendation. Thanks in advance!

Hi- This is fairly straightforward to remedy if you prepare the surfaces adequately. First clean the interior black rubberised section of all grit/ residue with hot soapy water and dry out- use hairdryer/ carefully with heatgun to evaporate all fluid. You will require PVC 2 part adhesive and MEK ( Methlyethylketone) cleaner. Rub the interior black sections vigourously with the MEK and leave to dry at least 2 times ( this provides a good key for the activation of the adhesive). In terms of the wooden transom section- lightly buff with 80 grade sandpaper and blow any dust off. When both surfaces are dry of MEK/ dust, apply your first very thin coat of the adhesive to both surfaces and leave for 20 minutes. Repeat. On the 3rd coat leave for 10 minutes then bring the transom and black recessed section into contact. I would completely deflate the boat and pull back on the rubber section to expose any further dry stick before attempting the job. Once you have made contact between the 2 surfaces, fully inflate the boat and push the flanges against the tubes working outwards to remove any air pockets- a blunt flat object will do the trick. Next, use a nylon ratchet strap,. or rope tourniquet to exert pressure between the surfaces(not too tight). Leave for min. 72 hours before removing and you should be ok. The most critical element of repairing zodiac type boats is to carry out the repair in a warm dry atmosphere. Any humidity- forget it. Best of luck- ex Zodiac repairer.

[kubcat]

I tried it and failed on my Zodiac and only last week paid someone to do it professionally. They added a few strips of PVC to hold it all together.

If I had the above information last week, I think I would have tried again. On the other hand, the glue and sanding discs etc cost me $100 and the repairer charged me $240 all up so wasn't that steep.

[Cookee]

Originally Posted by ram398

Hi- This is fairly straightforward to remedy if you prepare the surfaces adequately. Best of luck- ex Zodiac repairer.

He beat you by a month - but I'm sure someone else may find your advice helpful!

[diverdad]

Originally Posted by ram398

Hi- This is fairly straightforward to remedy if you prepare the surfaces adequately. First clean the interior black rubberised section of all grit/ residue with hot soapy water and dry out- use hairdryer/ carefully with heatgun to evaporate all fluid. You will require PVC 2 part adhesive and MEK ( Methlyethylketone) cleaner. Rub the interior black sections vigourously with the MEK and leave to dry at least 2 times ( this provides a good key for the activation of the adhesive). In terms of the wooden transom section- lightly buff with 80 grade sandpaper and blow any dust off. When both surfaces are dry of MEK/ dust, apply your first very thin coat of the adhesive to both surfaces and leave for 20 minutes. Repeat. On the 3rd coat leave for 10 minutes then bring the transom and black recessed section into contact. I would completely deflate the boat and pull back on the rubber section to expose any further dry stick before attempting the job. Once you have made contact between the 2 surfaces, fully inflate the boat and push the flanges against the tubes working outwards to remove any air pockets- a blunt flat object will do the trick. Next, use a nylon ratchet strap,. or rope tourniquet to exert pressure between the surfaces(not too tight). Leave for min. 72 hours before removing and you should be ok. The most critical element of repairing zodiac type boats is to carry out the repair in a warm dry atmosphere. Any humidity- forget it. Best of luck- ex Zodiac repairer.

Thanks RAM, I'll be trying this too!!

Thanks

Lee