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21 July 2018, 11:20
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#21
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tbd
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJR
Forgot to add photos to post [emoji23]
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I’m guessing it’s a Bombard Tropik 305 so quite an old boat potentially as google suggests purple was popular in early 90’s
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21 July 2018, 23:37
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#22
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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Yeah mate it is, and run into some issues with it already, the left side leaks from where the valve screws into the boat, I’ve tried moving the valve around and swapping with others and the issue still appears. Tried one run of electrical tape on it as I don’t have any ptfe tape to hand and it still bubbles. long bloody day
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21 July 2018, 23:45
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#23
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,994
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Can you get up an image of the valve to better describe exactly where it's leaking and what type it is? One showing bubbles even better.
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21 July 2018, 23:52
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#24
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tbd
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 127
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21 July 2018, 23:54
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#25
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tbd
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 127
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My manual suggests that part isn’t actually airtight it’s the outer cap that does the deal so that might need a new o ring
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22 July 2018, 00:21
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#26
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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Apparently all the photos I’ve just taken are invalid file format apart from the one I’ve attached LOL!
The bubbles appear on the bottom of the valve where it screws into the boat
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22 July 2018, 00:25
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#27
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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Managed to get another on
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22 July 2018, 00:26
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#28
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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This is the valve
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22 July 2018, 00:32
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#29
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tbd
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 127
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Maybe more like this one then,
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Original-Ge...&ul_noapp=true
But I know little so another user probably knows for certain like Fenlander
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22 July 2018, 00:35
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#30
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7ommy
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I’m tempted to buy one and try it, but I tried to seal around the thread earlier with electrical tape (I know it’s not ideal) but it didn’t seem enough and a second strip was too much and it wouldn’t catch the thread.
I’ll try PTFE tape properly tomorrow, failing that I’m stumped the valve seems fine it’s self, it’s the connection from the valve to the boat
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22 July 2018, 00:40
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#31
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridge
Make: Honwave
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tbd
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 127
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The outer cap held on a string, does it have an o ring and is it plyable or hard ? As I believe it’s the outer cap that makes the seal not the inner one way valve
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22 July 2018, 08:31
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#32
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,994
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Yep those are the same very simple flap valves as on my Aerotec air floor and are normally reliable.
So exactly which bit is leaking?
Behind the hex in you first image where it screws into the tube boss?
From the thread of the flap valve assy in image 3 where it screws into the hex?
Or from the cap with the string attached?
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22 July 2018, 08:44
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#33
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenlander
Yep those are the same very simple flap valves as on my Aerotec air floor and are normally reliable.
So exactly which bit is leaking?
Behind the hex in you first image where it screws into the tube boss?
From the thread of the flap valve assy in image 3 where it screws into the hex?
Or from the cap with the string attached?
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From the thread of the flap valve assy in image 3 where it screws into the hex
Will photograph shortly
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22 July 2018, 09:03
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#34
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,994
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OK... do you have an O-ring at the top of that thread because that not the thread should make the seal...from the image it seems to have one.
The only time I've had a leak from there was on a sib I bought where someone had cross threaded the valve assy so the O-ring wasn't square to the hex flange.
Another thought would be damage or deformation to the hex flange surface where the O-ring seats?
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22 July 2018, 09:25
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#35
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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That’s the leak
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22 July 2018, 09:29
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#36
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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Valves and boat
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22 July 2018, 09:44
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#37
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,994
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OK there's quite a bit of froth in all places but the forming bubbles seem to be just where the valve assy should be seating on the hex... is that right?
If so... Do you have the O-ring and is it in good condition. Does the valve screw in nicely or could it be cross threaded? If the hex surface where the o-ring seats undamaged? Could there be a tiny crack in the female thread of the hex?
If you greased the O-ring with Vaseline does the leak stop?
What pressure are you inflating to and how (pump type)?
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22 July 2018, 09:52
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#38
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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Yeah sorry I did highlight the bubbles, but the image wouldn’t upload.
The whole assembly seems okay. I’ve moved other ‘male valves’ from the keel and opposite side and tried them, problem still persists which makes me think you are right it’s the female thread.
I tried electrical tape but one wrap wasn’t enough but helped and two was too thick to thread so I’ll try PTFE tape soon as the shops open.
I haven’t tried Vaseline
I’m using a hand pump made by intex and I just pump it until the boat takes shape then screw it all down and sit on this side and the bubbles start and it loses shape after a min or two.
I’m pretty confident there isn’t a puncture anywhere as a friend suggest to me just now. The bubbles seem to be consistent with the Amount of air lost.
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22 July 2018, 09:54
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#39
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Manchester
Boat name: Kim
Length: under 3m
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 31
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I’ve managed to highlight the area in question
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22 July 2018, 09:55
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#40
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: Cambridgeshire
Boat name: Nimrod II
Make: Aerotec 380
Length: 3m +
Engine: Yam 15 Tohatsu 9.8
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 8,994
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PTFE is a bit of a false repair (but if it works it works) as the seal should be on the O-ring not the thread and normally hand tight they will hold back 15psi of a high pressure air floor never mind the couple of psi you are probably at.
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